THE MEN BECOME TROUBLESOME 



41 



of the iron boat, which had been four hours on the road already 

 and had scarcely advanced a mile. The eighteen bearers, 

 sturdy fellows enough, were squatting quietly near their loads, 

 as if determined to see what passive resistance would do. To 

 my question, 6 What's the matter ? ' they at first answered 

 nothing, and when I repeated it in a sharper tone they all 

 growled in chorus, ' The boat is too heavy ; we cannot and we 

 will not carry it.' I tried to persuade them to go on, speaking 

 very gently and kindly ; but they took absolutely no notice of 

 me, and, not even deigning to give me a glance, remained 

 squatting in silence on the ground. Then I went close up to 

 one man, ordered him to pick up his piece of the boat, and 

 when he remained stolidly silent, I suddenly seized his stick, 

 intending to enforce my meaning with it ; but the threat was 

 enough, and more quickly than I had hoped the whole party 

 resumed their burdens and set off again. 



So passed the first day's march ; and the reader will 

 readily imagine that I very soon gave up the idea that one can 

 wander about in Africa in a light-hearted, careless way. And 

 sulky porters or refractory donkeys are not the only things to 

 damp one's spirits. It is no light matter to have to follow the 

 winding red line our route describes. Again and again compass 

 and chronometer must be consulted, and notes made in the log- 

 book in the full glare of the sun ; the changes in the appearance 

 of the nearest and most distant heights must be noted or 

 sketched ; and the path, but a few inches wide, leads through 

 thick and thin, now south, now east, now north, now west, in the 

 most bewildering manner. More weary and worn than I had 

 ever been before in my life, I entered the camp near the 

 village of Kitifu at two o'clock after this first day's march. 



And Count Teleki had had plenty of worries too. The 

 men had scarcely marched an hour before they began to lay 

 down their loads and to talk about camping. This was the 



