26 PREPARATIONS IN ZANZIBAR AND ON THE COAST 



of the place, Wali seated himself cross-legged on the low step 

 of his hut, with his writing materials near him ; whilst opposite 

 to him, making themselves comfortable on a straw mat, were 

 six representatives of the military power — wildly picturesque- 

 looking birobotos, or soldiers of the Sultan's irregular army. 

 As the day wore on the crowd increased ; from every side came 

 stately figures, clothed, it is true, in rags, but bearing themselves 

 with dignity, for were they not about to take their part in a 

 public session of a court of law ? And it was truly charming to 

 watch the formal courtesy with which each new-comer was 

 received ; even the plaintiff would pause in the midst of his 

 pathetic appeal to join in the general salaam, whilst the pro- 

 ceedings were all interrupted. 



When some twenty or thirty people were assembled, the 

 lean old prison warder never failed to appear, carrying a big 

 can of coffee, made from the finest Mocha berries, which he 

 offered to all without distinction ; after which the proceedings 

 went on until the sound of the muezzin called the faithful to 

 evening prayer in the neighbouring mosque. 



Our men, too, took care that our days should not pass too 

 quietly, and many of them were drawn towards the town by 

 the attractions of love or wine ; whilst some made themselves 

 noticeable in other ways. For the first day's rations we had 

 given out rice, and for the second dhurra, a native cereal (the 

 Andropogon sorghum) ; but presently came an impudent letter 

 saying that the dhurra must have been served out by mistake, 

 as it was only fit for asses' fodder. At this Count Teleki 

 decided to go himself and bring the fellows to their senses. 



I must also tell of a catastrophe which now befell us, and 

 affected us severely, novices as we still were to the vicissitudes 

 of travel in Africa. I mean the death, in spite of all our care 

 and nursing, of one of our valuable grey donkeys from Muscat, 

 after an illness of twenty-four hours. 



