8 



PREPARATIONS IN ZANZIBAR AND ON THE COAST 



negroes — Chuma, Baraka, and Jomari by name, whom I engaged 

 as servants, and now had to teach their duties — as well as a 

 number of others, whom I wished to employ as collectors of 

 beetles and butterflies. So my time was passed chiefly in 

 brown and black companionship, and the English colony saw 

 little of me till November 29, when the British India steam- 

 ship ' Oriental ' at last put into port with Count Teleki 

 on board. He had made the whole trip from London by sea, 

 and had had to wait a week at Aden for the Zanzibar mail. 

 The news of his arrival quickly became known, and very soon, 

 either singly or in groups, all those interested in the Expedition 

 came to bid the leader welcome and to kiss his hands, with 

 many deep obeisances and friendly grimaces. The Bwana 

 mknbwa, or great master, was now here, and my position as 

 an interesting European of the first rank was gone — I was now 

 only Bwana mdogo, or the little master ; such are the laws of 

 etiquette in East Africa ! Had there been a third member of 

 the Expedition, either he or I would have been the Bwana 

 katikati, or the middle master. 



Now began days of a very different kind for me, full of a 

 variety of occupations. Count Teleki had brought letters of 

 introduction, and various notabilities must be called upon — a 

 duty I had hitherto neglected. One day, of course, was 

 devoted to paying our respects to His Highness the Sultan, Seyid 

 Burgash, who was most favourably disposed towards us, took 

 the greatest interest in our Expedition, and promised to help us 

 by every means in his power. At this audience we also made 

 acquaintance with Dr. Gregory d'Arbela, physician to the 

 harem of the Sultan ; and the value will be readily understood 

 of the friendship of a man so trusted by the ruler of the 

 country, and who in many years' residence had acquired such 

 a thorough knowledge of the customs of the people. 



As already stated, we made out but a very rough sketch 



