90 



FROM THE COAST TO KILIMANJARO 



might, like some incorporeal vision, far above all things earthy 

 and material. 



As we approached Lake Jipe it disappeared from view, and 

 even when we were marching along its eastern banks the 

 next day, and could feel its presence, we were unable to see it, 

 on account of the dense and high growth of reeds between it 

 and us. The oppressive heat in which we had marched across 

 the sterile steppes made us look with longing eyes at a wood 

 of fresh green acacias near the lake, and in another hour we 

 were camped in their shade, able to feast our eyes on Lake 

 Jipe ; but, alas ! its water turned out to be turbid, tasting of 

 mud, and what we got from the middle of the lake, where 

 there were no rushes, with the aid of our boat, was not fit to 

 make tea, even when filtered and boiled. A march of three 

 hours next dav along the banks of the lake brought us to the 

 northern end. We had not been able to see the water, for the 

 same reason as on the previous day, so that we were the more 

 surprised at the lovely view from a little hill near by, over- 

 looking the whole extent of the quiet lake, with the dense, 

 impenetrable-looking forests on the north, from which, how- 

 ever, the rising smoke here and there bore witness to the 

 presence of inhabitants. 



Charming indeed was the appearance of the lake, with the 

 acacia- woods lining its shores and the rugged heights of the 

 Ugweno mountains forming a background ; but very dreary 

 was the view on the east of the monotonous bush-clad steppes 

 stretching away to the coast, a waterless, and therefore unin- 

 habited, wilderness. The immediate neighbourhood of Lake 

 Jipe is, however, haunted by lions and leopards, giraffes,- hyenas, 

 ostriches, and other wild creatures, who come down to the 

 water to drink, so that it is a very paradise for the hunter. 

 The lake itself abounds in crocodiles and hippopotami, as well 

 as in catfish and perch 



