IN THE HEART OF MASAILAND 



131 



of attention, and as many of them had never before seen a 

 European, it was interesting to note the impression we made 

 upon them. They generally gazed at us for a bit, at first 

 with an expression partly of astonishment, partly of suspicion ; 

 then they ventured on a 4 Leibon, sobaj /' or ' God bless you, 

 medicine-man!' to which, of course, as in duty bound, we re- 

 plied with an 4 Ebaj, moranj or £ The same to you, warrior,' and 

 the spell was broken. Evidently relieved, they would burst 

 out laughing, whilst all those standing round joined in. One 

 moran amused us immensely. Not dreaming of what he was 

 going to see, he pushed through the natives gathered about us, 

 and, coming upon us suddenly, started back in the greatest 

 terror. When curiosity was satisfied on both sides we resumed 

 our march, escorted by the whole crowd of natives, passed two 

 of their kraals, forded the Engilata river, and camped on the 

 farther side. 



We were now, with but a very small and weak caravan, in 

 the very heart of the most densely populated portion of Masai- 

 land, but we had no reason to complain of the behaviour of the 

 natives. On the contrary, except for a few old and apparently 

 influential men, they left us quite alone whilst we were getting 

 our camp into order. Not until our tents were pitched and 

 the bales piled up did they remind us of the hongo. In con- 

 nection with this exchange of presents the moruu, or married 

 men, gathered round the outside of the camp, whilst the moran, 

 or warriors, prepared to perform the usual dance. Divided 

 into two portions, according to their kraals or villages, they 

 approached with measured steps, singing the customary song 

 of welcome to caravans ; then they squatted down on the grass 

 behind their oval shields, and, like the elders, waited patiently 

 for the present. Jumbe Kimemeta, although still suffering a 

 good deal, now approached them, accompanied by a few Askari, 

 with a view to arranging about the amount of the hongo. 



K 2 



