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CHAPTEE IV 



THROUGH MASAILAND TO THE BORDERS OF KIKUYULAND 



From July 15 to August 27, 1887 



We leave Taveta — Along the eastern base of Kilimanjaro— The crater lake of Jala 

 — A fugitive caught and punished — Hunting adventure — Kimangelia — Count 

 Teleki goes on in advance — His adventures — Malago Kanga — Amongst the 

 Masai — Lake Nyiri — Buffalo hunting — Cattle disease in Masailand — The 

 steppe on the north of Kilimanjaro — Some account of the Masai — At the foot 

 of the Doenye Erok la Matumbato— Hunting episode — On the Ngare Kidongoi 

 — The Wandorobbo — Trading in ivory — The waterholes of Seki — Tricks of the 

 Masai — Another buffalo hunt— On the Besil brook — To Turuka — Adventure 

 with elephants — A lion hunt — A dreary time— Over the Doenye Erok la Kapotei 

 — The poisonous Morio tree — Arrival at.Ngongo Bagas. 



There is always much that is unpleasant about the starting of 

 a large caravan after a long halt. The demons of anxiety and 

 care, which had for a time been laid to rest, once more asserted 

 themselves, and we specially dreaded the march before us, as 

 men and animals were alike greatly overladen ; nor did we 

 altogether trust the apparent good disposition of our men, but 

 fully expected them to show the cloven foot before long. 



Before daybreak the almost forgotten sound of the barghum 

 awoke the sleepers from their dreams, but the camp emptied 

 but slowly this morning. There were a hundred things to 

 arrange at the last moment. Many were the grievances and 

 complaints to be attended to, and only singly and in pairs did 

 the porters file out of camp, the last man not leaving till half- 

 past ten. 



The march led us now through a different portion of the 



