CHAP. IV TRAVELS IJST EASTERN AFRICA 127 



photograph of its head and neck, which will convey an 

 idea of its peculiar appearance. 



Just before sunset Lieutenant von Hohnel and I 

 crossed the river, and climbed the plateau. It rises to 

 a height of nearly 500 feet above the plain, with sides as 

 steep as the glacis of a fort, and covered with large 

 blocks of lava. After a difficult climb, we reached the 

 top, which we also found to be covered with these 

 jagged blocks of larva, between which, at intervals, 

 could be seen a stunted euphorbia, aloe, or cactus forc- 

 ing its way. The top of the plateau is almost level, 

 but there is a perceptible rise to the westward. The 

 sun was just setting as we reached the top, so that we 

 were not permitted to gaze for any time at the panorama 

 spread out before us. However, we could trace the 

 course of the Guaso Nyiro for twenty miles further, 

 between the plateau and the desert, which stretched 

 indefinitely to the westward. Fortunately, there was a 

 full moon shining as we descended, so that we were 

 able to reach camp without much difficulty. In this 

 portion of Africa, as is well known, there is no twilight, 

 and within half an hour after sunset the darkness of 

 night has covered all. 



During this night we had a curious adventure. 

 About midnight Lieutenant von Hohnel woke me up 

 with a vigorous shake. I leaped to my feet and found 

 the whole camp in an uproar — the men all rushing to 

 and fro and shouting: ''Tayari! Tayari!'' ("Make 

 ready! Make ready !") in terrified tones. In the moon- 

 light the trees cast weird shadows, and it was difficult 

 to make out at once what was going on in camp. Sud- 

 denly a loud laugh was heard, and then the men imme- 



