The Ascent of Fujiyama. 



231 



a fragrant wood of maples, birches and dog-woods, with 

 hazels and ferns and grasses for lower growth. At the 

 edge of the timber line is an inn with a chapel attached — 

 the chapel of Ko-mitake. Here staves are sold, with the 

 white towel that is to be tied about the forehead, knotted 

 picturesquely in back. The towel bears a sacred inscrip- 

 tion. All pilgrims making the ascent for the first time 

 wear white clothes and tinkling little bells. 



Then begins the long, slow, easy climb. Soon all plants 

 have disappeared, leaving nothing but the loose, gray, 

 volcanic rocks. There is nothing at all difficult about the 

 climb of Fuji-san. It is only its great length that makes 

 it unattractive to most people — 12,600 feet rising at one 

 slope from the level of the sea. Subashiri is about 3,000 

 feet high. To break the route on the east side, the Subas- 

 hiri side, there are nine rest-houses, built in the very sides 

 of the mountain and commanding excellent views in 

 varying stages of decheance. At each station the staff 

 must be marked with the stamp of the station. Tea and 

 cake are offered. One is welcome to pass the night there 

 if one is too tired to proceed or if the weather becomes 

 unfavorable. In fact rest-house No. 8 is a large inn 

 where many people prefer to remain over night, as it is 

 more protected from the cold, howling wind. The only 

 really steep, hard portion of the climb is up the lava 

 dykes which are between stations 8 and 9 — not a very 

 attractive prospect if one begins to feel jaded. But we had 

 decided to sleep in the inn on top. At number 9 is a tiny 

 temple through which one must pass — Makai-Sengen, 

 "Goddess of Fuji's Welcome." Station number 10 is the 

 inn on the summit. 



It was not too late that same afternoon for us to make 

 the tour of the deep crater, two and one-half miles around 

 and two thousand feet across. The ground has a hollow- 

 resonant sound as one walks. Ladders must be used 

 occasionally in case of sheer walls. There are fumes; 

 everywhere, blue and yellow steam, which render it neces- 

 sary to walk very fast in certain directions. On the west: 



