1S80.] R. C. Temi^le—Eottfe of the Tal Oliotiali Field Force. 153 



I the selection of a ruler. Thus Samandau Kha'n of the Lu'nis, now tlieir 

 leader, is the son or near relative of Paind Kha'n their late ruler. Siia'h 

 Jeha'n of Khasno'b (Zuo'b valley) is a great man among the Kakars and 

 GwABAT Kua'k among the Sandae Khe'l. 



V. Civilization. 



I As regards civilization, except as to dress, methods of cultivation and 



! dwelhngs, but little could be observed in such a hurried journey as mine. 



On the first point there is little to be noticed beyond what has been 

 already written about it by the authors of the following:* " The' Afghans 

 wear their clothes long. They consist of two large very ample robes and 

 are either of cotton or a cloth made of camel's hairf called Baeek : this is 

 the dress of -the people. The only difference in the garments of the rich 

 is tlie material, which is silk, cloth or Kashmir. In summer they are made 

 j without lining, but in winter they are wadded with cotton or lined with 

 I far. The under-garment is confined by a piece of muslin or long-cloth 

 i which is wound round the body. The outside one, and sometimes a third 

 robe, is used as a cloak, and a person would be considered as wanting in 

 politeness if on visiting a superior he did not put it on. The shirt is veiy 

 full and the sleeves which reach below the hands particularly so. J Tlie 

 former is open to the sides from the neck to the waist and falls over the 

 trousers, and these which are excessively large, open at the foot and are 

 drawn in at the waist with a string. The head is covered by an enormous 

 blue or white turban and the feet with slippers without quarters. The 

 i upper classes are for the most part simplj-- dressed and consider luxury in 

 j this resjDect as enervating, but some young chiefs have their robes embroider- 

 1 ed with gold thread and ornamented with gold lace. Tliis is done in the 

 I harems by the women who excel in this kind of work, particularly in Kanda- 

 j bar. The Afghans are not careful of their clothes and soil them the 

 f very first day they are put on, for they squat on the ground without taking 

 the least thought whether the spot on which they sit is clean or dirty. 

 Tliey never change their garments, not even the shirt, until they are com- 

 pletely worn out, and as they rarely wash themselves they are constantly 

 covered with vermin great and small." 



In the matter of dress excepting the Achakzais, the Duranis show as 

 I usual a considerable superiority over the other tribes. The following was 

 found to be a fairly true description of their dress. § " The Duranis about 

 • Macgregor's Gazetteer. 



t A thick white material like felt for the outer cloak is common about KanJ;ih,ar 

 and the Pishin, and to this is often added a " iDoshtm" or coat of skin with the hair 

 toned inwards. 



X The cloaks about Kandahi'ir and all over the South have frequently long false 

 blecves reaching nearly to the ground. 

 § Macgregor's Gazetteer. 



