Four Mexican Volcanoes. 



103 



mountain on grass mats with an Indian to guide each 

 one. History states that at the time of the conquest 

 Cortez sent Alvarado to the crater to get sulphur for 

 the manufacture of gunpowder. 



After a good night's sleep, we set forth at six o'clock. 

 The temperature was 28° F., the same as at seven o'clock 

 the night before. The date was January i6th, and the 

 elevation at this point was about 12,500 feet. 



We rode through fine volcanic ash, which was covered 

 by the whitest frost I have ever seen, to snow line, where 

 we dismounted near a small cross, which our guide told 

 us was built on the spot where a peon, while cutting ice, 

 had been hit on the head by a falling rock. 



To our right was a little peak called Pico del Fraile, 

 which juts out from the northwest slope of the moun- 

 tain. So far as I have been able to learn, it has never 

 been climbed. Its height above sea-level is 15,000 feet, 

 and it rises about 500 feet above the saddle which con- 

 nects it with Popo. The sides are almost perpendicular, 

 affording a good opportunity for an ambitious climber. 



The snow in front of us was smooth, and frozen as 

 hard as marble. Fortunately, well-cut steps had been left 

 by a former party, saving us trouble. It was a novel 

 experience, after climbing on a snow-slope for two and 

 a half hours, to come suddenly on the crater, a huge abyss, 

 half a mile in diameter and 1,500 feet deep. At intervals, 

 loosened rocks rattled down the precipitous walls, and 

 from two holes on the far side there issued thick columns 

 of steam, colored yellow by sulphur. Evidently Popo- 

 catepetl is trying to remain true to its name, which means 

 "smoking mountain" in the language of the Indians. 



The rim of the crater is by no means horizontal. The 

 mountain is a cone, truncated at an angle, the highest 

 point being on the southwest side, about 700 feet above 

 the lowest. The bottom of the crater is nearly level, and 

 contained a little snow. The remains of the windlass 

 and steel cable used in hoisting sulphur could still be 

 seen. The odor of hydrogen sulphide was apparent, and 



