Sierra Club Bulletin. 



Being an active* member, I officiated as a rear guard 

 on the first Daly climb. Leaving camp at 5 a. m., we 

 went up the east fork of Niles Creek, climbed above the 

 timber to the ledge overlooking the canon and secured 

 a comprehensive view southward, with Sherbrooke Lake 

 below and the snow ranges beyond. Keeping along the 

 slope of the main ridge, we made our way up to the 

 rocks at the edge of the first snow-field, where we had 

 an early lunch and enjoyed the view as we looked down 

 on the huge glacier extended beneath us between Daly 

 and Niles. Ascending the snow-fields, we reached the 

 summit about noon and dropped down to the rocks just 

 below for rest and shelter. A huge cornice or snow-cap 

 forms the summit, projecting out in a spectacular manner 

 beyond an almost precipitous northeast wall. The view 

 from any of the high peaks of the Canadian Rockies is 

 grand, and Daly was no exception. From Daly we could 

 see the party on the summit of Niles like black ants on 

 the snow-white crest. In descending, we changed our 

 course westerly, going down a steep rock-strewn spur to 

 the glacier. The Swiss guide took the main party across 

 the glacier and down the west fork, while the chairman of 

 the climbing committee led us down the east fork, glissad- 

 ing down the steep snow terraces close to Daly, separated 

 from the glacier by a rocky spur. 



The following day I led a party of six up to the glacier 

 and Niles Pass, going up the east fork to the glacier. 

 We slowly worked our way up the steep snow terraces, 

 down which we had come the previous day, and made our 

 way across the glacier, keeping well away from the pre- 

 cipitous front to avoid yawning cracks. Crossing the 

 ridge which extends down from Niles, we ate lunch in a 

 grassy basin at the head of the west fork, a point that 



*The definition of an active member is as follows: "Active Members — 

 Those who have made an ascent of a truly alpine, glacier-hung peak rising 

 at least two thousand five hundred feet (2,500 feet) above the timber-line 

 of its region; their eligibility for election to be decided by the Executive 

 Board." At each outing certain peak or peaks are selected and if the 

 graduating member succeeds in making the summit of one of the approved 

 peaks, he becomes eligible for election as an active member. 



