lU PICTORIAL PRAGTIGAL VEGETABLE GROWINQ. 



sweeter than the larger, coarser stuff from the dung pit — an abomi- 

 nation which no person of refined taste, and with a knowledge of the 

 horrors of typhoid, would tolerate. 



As a swamp plant, Celery is very liable to throw up suckers, but 

 these should be picked out before they develop, or they may spoil 

 the sticks. 



It almost goes without saying that in dry spells good soakings of 

 w^ater or liquid manure (sew^age or artificial according to taste) will 

 be very helpful. 



A few words as to tying and earthing. There is no gain in 

 earthing Celery early, but there is in tying. Some people earth 

 Celery in August or September because they see other people doing 

 it, and quite regardless of the condition of the plants. If, however, 

 the plants are backward they should not be earthed, unless there is 

 danger of frost, because earthing checks growth. Celery that is 

 barely a foot high in September will often make good sticks if a 

 couple of ties are made, one nearly at the base of the plants, the 

 other just under the leaves. Raphia is the best tying material, and 

 it should be drawn tight enough to bring the stems together, without 

 packing. In October, or whenever frost threatens, the plants should 

 be earthed. 



While soil is a great protector of Celery, and plays an important 

 part in keeping out frost, its primary purpose in the case of early 

 Celery is, of course, blanching. Now, Celery can be thoroughly 

 blanched in much less time than most people think. A period of a 

 month to six weeks usually sufiices. Therefore, earthing need not be 

 hurried, but may be done with due allowance and deliberation. 



It is common to unloose ties when earthing, on the ground that if 

 it is neglected the hearts of the plants will rot. I have not seen any 

 such dreadful result follow a casual forgetful ness in the matter, but 

 the principle is good, and may be acted on. Care should be taken, 

 however, to keep earth out of the hearts. Earthing should never be 

 done when the soil is very dry or very wet. When it is moist and 

 crumbly it is right. Putting dry earth to the base of the plants, and 

 then sprinkling a few drops of water on the top, is not uncommon, 

 and frequently leads to "bolting" (running to seed). At the first 

 earthing the soil should be placed round the plants up to a point just 

 beneath the leaves. This will probably fill the trench. The soil 

 should be made fairly firm, but not absolutely solid, or future growth 

 will be small. When the growth has extended another 6 inches or 

 so a second earthing may be given, w^hich will take the mound above 

 the surface. Later, a good baulk may be built up for protection's 

 sake ; and in hard weather some clean, dry litter should be scattered 

 over the tops of the plants, or frost may set up decay, which will 

 develop downwards. 



The single- ti-ench system is the most popular, and is the best for 

 fine ])roduce. There is no serious objection, how^ever, to having any 

 number of rows up to half a dozen in one trench where large 

 quantities are wanted, and where si)ace is limited. Tying and 



