JOURNEY FROM SEVILLE. 37 



gardens, or in any of the small villages round Seville. 

 At the present season they are gathering the Grenadilla^ 

 or pomegranate, which is very abundant ; and this, with 

 melons, and bread, and olives, seems to constitute, at 

 this season, the principal fare of the common people at 

 all times of the day. 



Wednesday, \2th October. — On Thursday morning 

 last I joined the caravan of the ordinario, which, on its 

 starting, consisted of six waggons, besides a covered cart 

 with stuffed seats and backs, called a tertanay in which 

 were three friars and myself. A number of persons, on 

 asses and on foot, also accompanied us, but these gra- 

 dually dropt off as we proceeded. It took six days, in- 

 cluding a day spent at the town of Antequera, to accom- 

 plish the journey to Malaga, a distance of 130 miles. 

 About eight miles before reaching the former town, a 

 party of horsemen came in sight, to the evident conster- 

 nation of every one. It was said they belonged to the 

 party of Jose Maria, a famous brigand, who has 35 men 

 well mounted and equipped, and levies contributions on 

 all the roads throughout the province. They did not, 

 however, approach nearer than half-a-mile; and one of 

 the muleteers having gone off to them, returned in three 

 quarters of an hour, and said they were not robbers but 

 soldiers. Two miles farther on, however, we stopped at 

 a house where we were told it was customary to make a 

 contribution to guarantee travellers against robbers; and 

 14 dollars having been collected, we saw no more of the 

 party which caused such alarm. 



With little exception, the whole tract of country from 

 Seville to Antequera is of the richest possible description, 

 but in the most wretched state of cultivation. There are 

 no enclosures save here and there a vineyard ; and such 



