4 SHERRY WINES. 



older wines, there is a very dry kind of sherry called 

 Amontillado or Montillado, which abounds in the peculiar 

 nutty flavour that distinguishes sherries, and which is 

 frequently added when that is deficient. Being very 

 light in colour, it is also used to reduce the colour of 

 sherries which are too high ; and when, on the other 

 hand, colour is required, the deficiency is made good by 

 the mixture of boiled wine, or rather of boiled must. 



The lowest priced sherries are in general the growth 

 of Port St. Mary's or San Lucar, two districts within ten 

 miles of Xeres ; or they are brought round from Malaga 

 to Port St. Mary's, and thence transhipped for England 

 under the name of sherry, perhaps after having been 

 landed and mixed with other wines to give them the 

 qualities in which they are deficient. All these low- 

 priced wines are largely mixed with brandy, being 

 intended for the consumption of a class of people who 

 are unable to judge of any quality in wine but its 

 strength. But brandy is added in very small proportions 

 to the good wines — never in greater quantities than four 

 or five per cent, while they remain in the cellar, and 

 frequently not at all, unless the wine should become 

 scuddy or mothery ; and thus the finest wines are fre- 

 quently entirely free from it ; but, on their shipment, a 

 small dose of brandy is considered absolutely necessary, 

 even to fine wines, to make them bear the voyage, as it 

 is said ; but, in reality, because strength is one of the 

 first qualities looked for by the consumers. When wines 

 become mothery in the London Docks, they send them 

 back to be cured, and this curing consists of nothing 

 more than an addition of brandy : perhaps, indeed, it is 

 chiefly effected by the motion of the voyage. The soleras, 

 or store- casks, in which the wine is kept, are left with a 



