CHAMPAGNE. 



127 



with grooves, sloping to a gutter, by which the wine w^hich 

 has burst the bottles is conveyed to a cistern in the floor, 

 and, as there is the most perfect cleanliness observed, a 

 part of the wane is thus sometimes saved. 



M. Ruinart, junior, is a large proprietor of vines at 

 A}', where the first qualities of frothing Champagne are 

 made, and to this place he strongly recommended my 

 proceeding, in order to have the most favourable view of 

 the vineyards of Champagne, of which, he said, the 

 cultivation was every where nearly similar, although 

 conducted at different places with more or less care. 

 He savs the ordinary produce of his own vineyards is 

 from 10 to 12 pieces, of about 46 gallons per arpent, 

 which is about a •25th part more than an English acre ; 

 that is, from 440 to 530 gallons per English acre. 

 Having determined on visiting Af, M. Ruinart gave 

 me a letter to to his manager, but he said he expected 

 him next day at Rheims, and would give him full instruc- 

 tions on seeing him. 



Thursday/, 22nd December, — At six o'clock this morn- 

 ing I joined the voiture for Epernay, where I arrived at 

 eleven o'clock. After breakfast I immediately pro- 

 ceeded to Ay, intending to return the next day also to 

 meet the agent of M. Ruinart, should I not be satis- 

 fied with the information I might procure in his ab- 

 sence. Ay is a small town on the right bank of the 

 river Marne, a little higher up than Epernay, which is 

 situated on the left bank. On both sides of the river 

 there is a range of chalky hills, but separated also by a 

 very beautiful meadow about a mile in width. These 

 hills are of no great elevation, and are more or less steep, 

 but in no place is the soil required to be supported by 

 terraces. The range of hills above the town of Ay is ex- 



