ASPARAGUS. RHUBARB. HORSERADISH tg 



that one-year-old plants are more desirable for trans- 

 planting than two-year-olds ; and that the male 

 plants — those that bear no seeds — produce larger 

 asparagus than the seed-bearing female plants ; hence 

 some few specialists go so far as to discard all seed- 

 producing plants. If planted 2x3 feet apart, 7,260 

 roots are required for one acre ; 2x4 feet, 5,445 

 roots.) 



Another method : Mark out furrows, say four 

 feet apart and six inches deep, on well-prepared, well- 

 manured land. Sow the seed in the furrows and 

 cover lightly. As the plants grow, gradually pull the 

 soil to them until level, in the meantime thinning 

 them out to about two feet apart. Perhaps the thin- 

 nings can be sold to a neighbor. Give careful culti- 

 vation, and your asparagus should be ready for busi- 

 ness in two years. This method obviates the neces- 

 sity of transplanting. 



Asparagus is sometimes forced in hotbed, cold- 

 frame or cellar. Dig mature roots in the fall and 

 store them until wanted. The roots, after forcing, 

 are w^orthless. 



Varieties of asparagus : Any variety is about 

 as good as another ; size and quality depend more 

 upon culture and manure than upon the variety. 

 Conover's Colossal, Palmetto, Barr's Mammoth and 

 Columbian White are well-known kinds that I have 

 tested. 



Insects and diseases : The principal asparagus 

 pests are beetles and rust. There are two kinds of 

 asparagus beetles, both of which injure the plants by 

 eating the green parts and making holes in the stalks, 

 and by laying their eggs upon the plants, from which 

 eggs grubs or larvae hatch and feed upon the green 

 parts of the plant. In habits^ effects and remedies 



