MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT TREES, &c. 143 



finding many where the bark had not united, and some of the 

 eyes apparently dead, I took a sharp pen-knife and cut out all 

 the decayed bark, rubbing in the composition, in the liquid state, 

 till the hollow parts were filled up ; I then smoothed it off, 

 with the finger, even with the bark of the stock. I also rubbed 

 some of the composition over those eyes that were in the worst 

 state, being quite black ; but with very little hope of recovery. 

 To my great astonishment, many of those which seemed per- 

 fectly dead, recovered, and by the middle of July had shoots 

 from live to six feet long (many of the shoots which took well 

 have fruit buds formed for next year), and covered a space of 

 wall larger than a young tree would have done in eight years ; 

 all the cavities where I cut out the dead bark, and applied the 

 composition, were, in the course of the summer, filled up with 

 sound wood, and the bark between the stocks and grafts per- 

 fectly united. 



Three years ago I budded on some Brown Beurres and 

 Crasanes with Pear d'Auch, one of which now covers a wall 

 sixteen feet high, and fifteen feet long, and has more fruit on 

 it this year than a maiden tree would have produced twenty 

 years after planting. 



I never recommend budding or grafting of old trees, ex- 

 cept when you have bad sorts, or more of any sort than you 

 want for a supply : In that case, I would recommend to bud or 

 graft with Pear d'Auch, Colmars, and Winter Bonchretiens, * 

 which keep much longer than Beurres, Crasanes, &c. 



It will be necessary to give some directions for standards 

 that have been grafted in the spring, and have missed. In such 

 case, they should be cut below the graft, as directed for wall- 

 trees ; and when so treated, they will throw out a great num- 

 ber of shoots, which should by no means be too soon thinned, 

 as in that case they Avill be liable to be broken by the wind. 

 You may begin to take off the weakest shoots about the latter 

 end of May, or beginning of June. About the middle of the 

 latter month, they will have acquired considerable strength ; 

 you may then thin them; leaving as many strong regular shoots, 

 and of those nearest the top of the stem, as will form a hand- 

 some head. If the stem be very strong, it will be necessary, 

 perhaps, to leave more than you intend to bud, on purpose to 

 receive the sap, which will flow in great abundance from a 

 large trunk, and, without this precaution, would be apt to 

 burst the shoots, if there be not a sufficient number to receive 

 it. I have often seen shoots as large as my arm burst by a 

 superabundance of sap. When that is likely to happen, the 

 best thing you can do is, to scarify the shoots, and rub a little 

 of the composition into the wound. 



