228 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



firm, covering lightly with some 

 finely sifted soil. Prepare a piece 

 of ground by treading it firmly and 

 placing on it 6 in. of rotten horse- 

 manure and leaf-mould in equal 

 portions, tread firmly, and cover 

 with 2 in. of fine, rich soil. When 

 the plants have made two or three 

 leaves, prick them out in rows 4 in. 

 apart upon the bed thus prepared, 

 firming them well in as the planting 

 proceeds, and watering them with a 

 fine-rosed pot, so as to settle the soil 

 round them. If at hand, a frame 

 might be placed over the bed for a 

 short time until the young plants 

 have got established, giving plenty 

 of air during the daytime, or the 

 plants can be covered with mats at 

 night. If properly cared for, they 

 will be fit to be transplanted into 

 the trenches in two months from the 

 time the seed was sown. 



For late plants a sowing may be 

 made in April the same as in March, 

 only the plants will need no pro- 

 tection when pricked out. 



Trenches for Celery are often 

 made between rows of early Peas, 

 which shade the Celery-plants when 

 newly planted in hot weather, and 

 when the Pea crop is harvested the 

 Celery has the full benefit of sun 

 and air. The trenches being ready 

 for the reception of the plants, water 

 them the day previous to trans- 

 planting ; lift them carefully with 

 a trowel, preserving every fibre, 

 replant i ft. apart, press the soil 

 firmly round the roots, water well, 

 and shade for a few days if the 

 weather be dry and warm. The 

 summer treatment consists in keep- 

 ing the ground free from weeds by 

 frequent hoeings, watering twice a 

 week if the weather is very dry, 

 and once if dull. When the plants 

 are from 6 to 9 in. high, weak 

 manure-water may be given them 

 once a week. This is prepared by 



soaking either cow or horse manure 

 in a large tub or tank, applying a 

 portion of soot with the manure- 

 water, or a handful of soot may be 

 scattered occasionally around the 

 plants before watering them. This 

 destroys slugs and feeds the plants, 

 giving them a fine green colour. 

 In exposed situations it is often 

 necessary to tie the leaves up when 

 I ft. or so high, to save them from 

 being broken by high winds, using 

 for the purpose strands of fine 

 matting, but be careful that the ties 

 do not cut the leaves when growing. 

 It is best not to earth the plants 

 up much until they have nearly 

 completed their growth. Merely 

 scatter a little soil over the roots 

 once a fortnight to serve as a mulch- 

 ing and induce the roots to come to 

 the surface. 



Blanching requires from five to 

 seven weeks after the final earthing. 

 Before commencing to earth up, 

 all small leaves and any suckers, or 

 secondary shoots, which may have 

 grown from the base of the plants 

 should be ranoved; tie the leaves 

 carefully with some pieces of thin 

 bast, which will give way as the 

 plants swell. Some use tubes for 

 blanching, such as drain-pipes, 

 placed round the plants ; others 

 paper collars, and some employ 

 clean paper, which keeps the soil 

 from getting into the hearts of the 

 plants when earthing is being per- 

 formed, raising the collars as the 

 earthing proceeds, or the collars 

 may be left upon the plants. If 

 tubes are not used, the soil must be 

 banked up in the usual way at several 

 times, being careful to keep the 

 leaves close together, so that the 

 heads may be straight and compact 

 after being blanched. Choose dry 

 weather for earthing, for if damp 

 the hearts are sure to rot. Before 

 earthing scatter a little lime round 



