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BALLYGREEN SYSTEM 

 OF PEDIGREE TREES 



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Certified 



C. F. WHALEY 

 Originator of the 

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Combines the best practices of horticulture with honest, efficient business 

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BALLYGREEN NURSERIES 



HANFORD, WASHINGTON 



W. REAUGH 

 Graduate 

 in Horticulture 

 Field Manager 

 Ballygreen Nurseries 



Continued from page 45 



tory. The answer to both questions 

 depends not only upon the variety of 

 fruit to be sprayed, but also upon the 

 conditions prevailing in the orchard to 

 be sprayed and the relative importance 

 of the orchard crop to other crops. The 

 orchardist can afford to do more spray- 

 ing than can the farmer, but usually can 

 obtain satisfactory results with fewer 

 applications — first, because he is usually 

 better equipped for the work and has a 

 better knowledge of why he sprays; and, 

 second, because his orchard is usually 

 less seriously infested owing to the 

 better care it has received. 



An almost universal practice in this 

 state — and a good one — is to spray the 

 orchard, whatever the kind of fruit, with 

 lime-sulphur at some time while the 

 trees are dormant. While this applica- 

 tion is made primarily for San Jose scale, 

 I believe there is no other which has 

 such a generally benficial result. It 

 is the annual "house-cl-eaning"' of the 

 orchards. 



The best time for this winter spraying 

 is immediately after the leaves drop in 

 fall — even before they are all off — or 

 just before the buds open in the spring. 

 Personally I should prefer the latter 

 were the orchard seriously infested with 

 San Jose scale; the former were it badly 

 infested with anthracnose. 



All other sprayings are for special pur- 

 poses, and can best be considered in con- 

 nection with particular pests. 



Apple Scab — Spray with lime-sulphur 

 (1-30); first, when the blossoms are 

 beginning to unfold; second, immedi- 

 ately after the blossoms fall; third, ten 

 days or two weeks later. (If the trees 

 were sprayed with winter strength lime- 



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sulphur solution immediately before the 

 buds started the first of the above appli- 

 cations may be omitted. If prolonged 

 rainy weather follows the third spray- 

 ing, a fourth, two weeks later, may be 

 profitable). 



Codling Moth — Add arsenate of lead 

 to the second scab spray. Endeavor at 

 this time, by the most thorough work, 

 to fill the blossom end of every apple 

 with the spray. If this be well done, 

 and if the fruit be again thoroughly 

 sprayed late in June, fairly good results 

 may be obtained without further appli- 

 cations. It is our experience, however, 

 that in the Willamette Valley at least it 

 usually pays to spray once or twice for 

 the second brood. The first of these 

 applications should be about August 1, 

 the second some three or four weeks 

 later. While thorough work should be 

 done at all times, particular emphasis 

 should be placed upon the two first 

 sprayings. If all of the first brood 

 larvae could be killed there would be 

 none of the second. 



San Jose Scale — Spray in winter with 

 lime-sulphur immediately after the leaves 

 fall or before the buds start in the spring. 

 Do thorough work. Soak every part of 

 the tree. 



Aphids or Plant Lice (woolly-aphis, 

 green-aphis, brown-aphis, black-aphis) — 

 The plant-lice rarely, if ever, become 

 troublesome in orchards which receive 

 an annual winter spraying with lime- 

 sulphur. Dilute kerosene emulsion or 

 Black-Leaf Sheep Dip, applied just after 

 the leaf buds start or at any time the 

 aphids become troublesome and before 

 the leaves curl, is also effective. 



Apple Tingis — Practice clean culture; 

 clean up and burn all rubbish about the 

 orchard. Spray when eggs are hatching, 

 in late May or early June, with kerosene 

 emulsion or Black Leaf Sheep Dip. 



Apple Tree .Anthracnose — Spray with 

 linrdeaux or lime-sulphur soon after fall 

 rains begin, or at least as soon as fruit 

 is picked. Spray again with lime-sulphur 

 as soon as leaves have fallen. 



Barley — To prevent smut use 24. 



Beans — For weevil fuinigate the seed 

 with 13. 



Beet — See under sugar beet. 



Blackberry — For anthracnose, leaf- 

 spot and rust spray with 1.5 before leaves 

 start; when leaves ar half-grown use 16; 

 repeat in two weeks. 



Cabbage and Cauliflower — For club- 

 root rotate crop; destroy all stumps and 

 other waste in fall; apply lime at rate 

 of 80 to 100 bushels per acre and work 

 into- soil. For worms use 1 to 3 when 

 first observed. After plants head 6 to 

 12 may be used if preferred. For aphis 

 use 11. 



Carnations — For rust and other fun- 

 gus diseases spray with 22 when disease 

 first appears, and repeat at intervals of 

 two weeks. Give good culture, avoid 

 wetting leaves. For red-spider or aphis 

 use 11 or 25. 



Cherry — For brown-rot and leaf-spot 

 spray with 16 or 25 when blossoms are 

 opening and again when petals fall; after 

 fruit begins to color use 25, 19 or 21. 

 For slugs use 2 when slugs first appear, 

 or if fruit is ripening dust with air-slaked 

 lime or fine dry dust. For aphis use 11. 

 For gummosis cut out gum pockets and 

 wash or spray with 15. For San Jose 

 scale use 25 when trees are dormant. 



Cucumber — For the striped cucumber- 

 beetle dust the plants with 3, or spray 

 with 16 plus 1. Plant some early squash 

 as trap plants, and when the beetles are 

 feeding on them dust them with pure 

 paris green. For fungus diseases spray 

 with 16 when vines begin to form and 

 repeat three or four times at intervals 

 of two weeks. 



Currant — For mildew spray with 25 

 when buds begin to open and repeat at 

 intervals of ten to fifteen days until fruit 

 is nearly ripe. For worms on leaves r.se 

 2 or G. For fruit worms destroy infested 

 fruit; allow the poultry the run of the 

 bushes when infested fruit is falling. 



Gooseberry — Same as currant. 



Grape — For mildews dust with sulphur 

 or spray with 25. For rot and anthrac- 



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