— Ill — 



and it would seem seriously affected, were all right in bud, leaf, blossom, 

 and fruit in the spring and summer following. They have shown no 

 sign of injury since, but on the contrary seem to have taken on a 

 healthier tone than the other trees, so that I now believe the treatment 

 by boring is perfectly safe, if done in September or October. I could 

 not vouch for it at other seasons of the year. 



After two years not one of the two hundred trees have died. Every 

 tree treated was marked by tying a strip of cotton cloth on a south side 

 branch next to the trunk of the tree. These marks still remain. Only 

 last week I dug away the earth from about twenty of these marked 

 trees, and found dead knots only — a specimen of which I brought with 

 me, that members of this convention, interested, might see for them- 

 selves. The trees treated for root knot now look as clean and healthy 

 as those not treated — no difference can be seen — they all made a 

 splendid growth last year and no finer trees of the same age can be seen 

 in our section. In the light of these facts, I consider the treatment 

 with bluestone, in the manner herein described, a success. Even if the 

 knots should reappear after three or four years, it would still be profit- 

 able to apply this remedy to keep the knot growth in check. The cost 

 of application need not be more than three to five cents a tree, and the 

 bluestone used is so trifling in quantity that it need not be considered 

 in the bill of expense. My treatment of root knot has always been in 

 the fall months of the year. Whether other seasons would do as well, 

 or better, I am not prepared to say. 



In using this remedy, my advice is to make the bluestone solution as 

 strong as the water will dissolve. 



In applying the solution be sure that it penetrates the core of the root 

 knot. 



If the knot is on the main stem of the root, so as to be easily acces- 

 sible, I would advise to knock it off and puncture the soft core repeat- 

 edly with any pointed instrument. Then apply the solution with a swab. 

 Be thorough in having the solution penetrate the diseased wood. 



In case the knot is difficult to reach — imbedded between roots, or 

 deep — bore into it with brace and small bit; aim at the core; then fill 

 the hole or holes with the solution from a stoppered bottle with a quill 

 in the stopper. Examine your trees below the surface, if you have 

 reason to suspect root knot. Apply the remedy before the knots have 

 reached the crown of the root and, by encircling the tree at this point, 

 have permanently injured and dwarfed the tree. There comes a time, 

 when if root knots are neglected, that the tree will not be worth saving. 



In conclusion, I will state that I have no theory to advance as to the 

 cause, or nature, of this disease. I will simply mention a few facts and 

 conditions, that may help those seeking the cause. My land is deep 

 alluvial on Napa Creek, Napa County. The creek banks show 15 to 20 

 feet depth without clay or adobe. It is naturally a well-drained, warm 

 soil. My trees affected were all prune trees on Myrobalan roots. I have 

 prune trees on peach roots growing on the same 10 acres. Not one of 

 these has root knot to the best of my knowledge and belief. I have 

 examined whole rows of those on peach root, adjacent to diseased rows 

 on plum root, and found not one of the peach roots affected. 



In the matter of cultivation and planting, I have been thorough, but 

 extra careful to not wound the roots with plows and cultivators, or in 

 any other manner. These facts seem at variance with many of the 

 so-called theories as to the cause of root knot. 



