VI 



PRUNING 



87 



will be useful for very small shoots, and for bits of dead 

 wood or anything in an awkward position, but in all 

 such cases the cuts should afterwards be trimmed and 

 smoothed as much as possible with a knife. A small 

 pruning-saw is most effectual for thick pieces of dead 

 wood, but in many instances cannot be used. Profes- 

 sionals will not only prune but will even bud their dwarf 

 plants by simply stooping over them, but I confess it 

 makes my back ache even to see them at it. For 

 kneeling on the wet soil I have found a piece of water- 

 proof about eighteen inches square more satisfactory and 

 less tiring than knee-caps, but it should be borne in 

 mind that the weight of the body will bring moisture 

 through any alleged waterproof that has not an actual 

 skin of indiarubber. 



Next as to the time of year. Some recommend a 

 certain amount of thinning in early autumn, to ensure 

 the ripening of the remaining shoots. If the plants are 

 to be but lightly pruned in the spring, this may be 

 desirable treatment ; but there is a danger of causing 

 low dormant buds wanted for next year to push at once, 

 the root power is probably slightly checked, and the 

 benefit gained is very slight, if the plants are to be 

 severely pruned. 



We may commence with Roses trained on sunny walls 

 about the middle of February, and in this case, whether 

 nailed or tied to wires, the operation will be very similar 

 to the pruning and laying in of a peach-tree. Begin 

 by taking out all dead and weakly wood ; then consider 

 which shoots are required for laying in, giving preference 

 to the ripest rather than the fattest, and steadfastly re- 

 sisting the temptation to train them too close together ; 

 of the remainder for which there is no room on the 

 wall, the gross shoots should be clean cut out and 



