106 TAVETA AND MOUNTS KILIMANJARO AND MERU 



pluck and powers of endurance. He had a clear dark skin, 

 almost black in parts ; liis eyes were jet black, and tliougli 

 tlieir usual expression was earnest and penetrating, they often 

 sparkled with merriment. He had finely cut nostrils, and from 

 between his lips, which were generally apart, gleamed two rows 

 of regular ivory-like teeth. 



Qualla was exceptionally intelligent, aiid very quick to 

 learn. He could soon distinguish all the different bottles in 

 our well-stocked medicine-chest, and had the contents of the 

 various bales at his finefers' ends. And as he had a o-ood deal 

 of vanity, he was generally very well dressed. He was the 

 most zealous Mahomedan in the caravan, and never once 

 neglected the prescribed purifications and prayers. His 

 influence over the natives and our men, not excluding Jumbe 

 Kimemeta himself, was great and salutary, indeed almost 

 magical, and we never once had cause to regret the con- 

 fidence we reposed in him. 



Only one or two of the other Somal shared any of Qualla's 

 good qualities, but they were all younger, and had not, of 

 course, had his experience. Tliey were, however, all alike 

 remarkable for unusual decision of character, for their 

 esprit de corps, and their proud, reserved bearing towards the 

 rest of the caravan ; on this account, and also because to them 

 was entrusted the infliction of the flogging which was often 

 absolutely necessary, they were almost as much feared and 

 loved — which amono-st neo-roes is the same thin"' — as our- 

 selves. 



But although Qualla relieved us of a great deal of work 

 and responsibility, there remained plenty for us to do. To 

 begin with, the condition and rate of the chronometer had to be 

 determined afresh, as the original data had been lost. It then 

 became apparent that the soil of Taveta was remarkably easily 

 thrown into a state of oscillation, so that even at a distance of 



