392 



ACROSS LEIKIPIA 



tlie nortliern outlet of the so-called Kope-kope swamps situated 

 somewhere on the north-west base of the Aberdare range. Its 

 upper course is Ijroken by a waterfall, which the Englisli 

 traveller Thomson named after himself, but the natives call it 

 the Ururo, or the roar of the water, and the river only 

 becomes the Guaso Narok, or black stream, below the falls. 



On the 10 til we entered the district of Subuo-o in the 

 Marmanett highlands, where Jumbe Kimemeta intended to 

 purchase ivory. A fine continuous rain had harassed our march 

 through the well-wooded and thickly populated neighbourhood. 

 We passed one very large Masai kraal, consisting of several 

 hundred huts on a little grassy hill, which had looked from the 

 distance like a regular circular fort. From this kraal the in- 

 habitants came out in crowds to watch us pass, laughing 

 merrily the wliile.^ I noticed that new kraals, before they become 

 bleached by rain and sun, look quite black. 



We pitched our camp in a pretty valley through which 

 flowed a little swampy brook. The neighbouring heights were 

 draped in mist ; a fine cold rain was falling, and the appearance 

 of the district with its green grass and beautiful oak-like trees 

 was quite European. We were now at a height of 7,287 feet, 

 and the thermometer registered +13° Centigrade. The rain 

 prevented the natives from visiting us in great numbers, and 

 those who did come crowded into the shelter of our tents. 

 To our surprise there were immense numbers of flies here. It 

 was cold enough for us to be glad to get out our winter 

 clothes, and we were quite comfortable in them. Our men 

 did not fare so well, but gathered about the fires with chatter- 

 ing teeth, whilst the shivering donkeys and goats, instead of 

 feeding, squeezed themselves in between the men to try and 

 share the warmth. We remained where we were the next day, 

 as, so far, we had not been able to open negotiations with the 

 Wandorobbo. 



