in 



TRA VELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 



"3 



amphitheatre at my feet. It is about 500 feet deep, 

 and about its top runs a rim of rugged rocks, from 

 which steep, grass-covered sides descend to the bottom 

 far below. In the centre of this hollow, cup-like bot- 

 tom there was what appeared to be a large rectangular 

 slab of marble broken at one end. From a distance it 

 bore a striking resemblance to such a stone as is placed 

 on the top of a vault, suggesting the idea that it was 

 the last resting-place of some giant king. This, upon 

 closer examination, proved to be a deposit of sulphate of 

 magnesium, and is what the natives prized as salt. Near 

 this deposit were found pools of water, but their contents 

 were undrinkable, and so my men went to bed thirsty. 



The following day we served out the water we had 

 carried in the water-bas^s. It was sufficient to o-ive 

 each man about one quart ; and this, I was careful to 

 tell them, must suffice until the Guaso Nyiro was 

 reached. Motio assured us that we should undoubt- 

 edly reach the river before dark, but a careful examina- 

 tion of the desert before us discovered not the slightest 

 sign of tree or bush. When these are absent from the 

 landscape in Africa, one has a right to be sceptical of 

 the presence of water. The following day was Christ- 

 mas, and the only gift we one and all prayed for on 

 that occasion was the sisfht of a rushing^ river. 



Upon leaving the crater, although the native path 

 had come to an end, the ground under foot was not 

 very bad. The hilly region was now behind us, and 

 we faced a plain covered with stunted, sun-dried grass. 

 Here and there were scattered awkward bits of lava, 

 which tripped unwary feet. We met several herds of 

 antelope and zebra. 

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