CHAP. V 



TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 



155 



white man. When cold, the negro invariably covers 

 his head and ears, and often sleeps with his head to the 

 fire ; while between him and the ground, no matter 

 how cold and damp, is spread but a single thickness 

 of straw matting, though most of the porters preferred 

 the skin of an animal, when procurable. This custom 

 of covering the head and exposing the nether extrem- 

 ities is practised by all inhabitants of hot countries 

 I have ever met. The Arabs have a saying, " If you 

 cover your head warmly and expose your feet, health 

 will ever remain with you." Of course, a European 

 is forced to wear shoes and stockings, which, while 

 they protect his feet, are very uncomfortable in hot 

 countries, and often cause the feet to swell. It has 

 been my experience that the thicker and warmer one's 

 head covering in the tropics, the cooler one's head 

 seems to be. For the first six months of this journey 

 I had worn a white turban, similar to those worn by 

 the Arabs, but had been forced to discard it, as its 

 conspicuousness rendered it difficult for me to stalk 

 game with success. Upon laying aside the turban, 

 I made use of a double-felt Terai hat, and had in- 

 creased its weight and thickness by adding a band 

 consisting of many folds of cotton sheeting. I found 

 that the top of my head did not need nearly as much 

 protection as the temples and nape of the neck. Many 

 travellers prefer the cork helmet; but both Lieutenant 

 von Hohnel and I found them not only very cumber- 

 some and awkward (particularly when forcing our way 

 through bush), but also not nearly so great a protec- 

 tion against tlic rays of the sun as thick felt. 



Motio had told us tliat owing to the cold the natives 



