ITS CULTUEE IN CALIFOENIA. 



53 



transplanted trees by this method as well 

 as by puddling and balling, and I find that 

 the damp straw alone answers every re- 

 quirement. 

 The principal precaution to be observed 



in transplanting orange trees is to avoid 

 the contact of air with the roots. If the 

 roots be thoroughly dried, the vitality of 

 the tree is lost. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Digging the Holes.— The stakes for 

 the orchard having been set as described 

 in a preceding chapter, the next operation 

 is digging the holes. 



Size of Holes.— If the ground has been 

 properly prepared, there is no necessity 

 for digging the hole larger than requi- 

 site for admitting the roots of the tree. 

 If the trees are balled, a hole large enough 

 to receive the ball is sufficient; if not 



balled, make it large enough to admit the 

 roots in a natural position, i. e. without 

 doubling on themselves. For the aver- 

 age three or four-year-old stock a hole 

 eighteen to twenty inches across and the 

 same depth is ample. 



The Planting Board.— A device in 

 almost universal use for fixing the point 

 where the tree should stand is known as 

 the planting board. 



^ — - 



FIG. 20— THE PLANTING BOARD. 



It is a light strip about five feet long, 

 with a notch (A) cut in the middle, and 

 Botches B and C at the extremities, as 

 shown in the figure. 



Manner of Using the Board.— When 

 about to dig the hole place the board on 

 the ground so that the central notch A 

 shall fit against the stake. Stick pins at 

 notches B and C. The board may now be 

 removed and the original stake at A pulled 

 up and the hole dug in its place. When 

 planting the tree, the exact place where it 

 should stand is fixed by replacing the 

 board so that the notches B and C fit upon 

 their respective pegs, and the tree stan- 

 ing in the hole, is held upright at the 

 notch A. 



It is not necessary that the board be 

 always laid on a parallel with the orchard 



PLANTING AN ORCHARD. 



lines, as a little variation in the angle wiU 

 make no difference in determining the 

 middle point; but it is essential that the 

 board be placed on the same side of the 

 stakes each time. For example, if it is 

 on the south side of the stake when the 

 pins at the extremities are stuck, then it 

 should be adjusted to these pins exactly in 

 the same manner when the tree is set and 

 the board be on the south side of the tree. 

 To avoid confusion it is best to follow one 

 rule throughout the orchard, placing the 

 board always on the same side of the 

 stakes. 



Throwing the Dirt.— In digging the 

 holes it is best to throw the dirt clear of 

 the pegs so that it shall not interfere with 

 the replacing of the board. In localities 

 where the surface earth is richer than the 

 subsoil, painstaking planters throw the 

 top earth in a pile by itself so that it can 

 be first returned to the hole, about the 



roots, and the poorer soil filled in at the 

 top. 



Planting.— Two men work together 

 to the greatest advantage in planting— one 

 to place the board and hold the tree, and 

 the other to shovel in the earth. The 

 operation is thus very quickly performed. 

 If the trees are sacked, the balls are placed 

 in the holes without disturbing the wrap- 

 ping, which will shortly rot away and 

 offer no impediment to the growing roots. 

 If not sacked do not take them from their 

 packing of straw until ready to plant 

 each in turn. Then handle with as much 

 celerity as possible without slighting the 

 work. The lateral roots should be care- 

 fully arranged in the hole so that they lie 

 in a natural position, none being doubled 

 up or crossed. 



Lacerated Roots.— If the tap root or 

 laterals are lacerated, cut away the injured 



