in the front yard or a border along-side 

 the house. Dig- and rake this and plant 

 a little lettuce seed and a little radish 

 seed, or mix them, and a few onion sets. 

 This emerg-ency g-arden will serve as a 

 curb on your very natural impatience, 

 g-ive some early vegetables and will not 

 interfere in the least with flower gar- 

 dening- later in the season. 



(3) Or, cover a space in the back 

 yard, 4x6 feet, with coal ashes a foot 

 deep and on top of this 2 to 4 inches of 

 soil. This quantity of dry soil can usually 

 be found somewhere nearby, even if bor- 

 rowed from a hig-h spot in a neighbor- 

 ing lot or field. Build around this gar- 

 den a rough frame of boards, sow seeds, 

 and cover frame nights and on cold or 

 rainy days with two storm windows or, 

 lacking these, with cheese cloth. What- 

 ever else you do keep out of the garden 

 until the soil is fit to work. 



Manures: 



The soil of almost any g-arden is 

 capable of producing satisfactory crops 

 without manure of any kind if properly 

 prepared in the spring and properly 

 cultivated during the growing season. 



The right kind of manure properly 

 applied will certainly give increased 

 yields but the wrong kind may be 

 worse than none at all. The right kind 

 is well-rotted stable manure; it is fine 

 in texture and mixes readily with the 

 soil. Also it is "pre-digested" ; the 

 plant food contained in it has been 

 made ready, by the process of decay, 

 for use by the plants. 



The wrong kind is fresh stable ma- 

 nure containing much straw or litter. 

 This must all be turned under so deeply 

 that the plant roots do not get to it 

 until midsummer or it interferes 

 with cultivation. Being coarse it serves 

 to ''dry out** the soil by interfering 

 (4) 



