8o 



COLE'S GARDEN ANNUAL. 



Hints on Sowing Seeds, Transplanting 

 and Making Hotbeds, Etc. 



SOWING THE SEED AND PREPARING THE SOIL. 



These are very important matters and care should be taken to have your seed bed finely raked and free 

 from all rubbish and lumps and well enriched with well-rotted manure, and also not to sow seed too early, 

 or in other words, until the soil becomes sufficiently warm and dry, so that it will work mellow and 

 crumble to pieces when struck with the spade. Do not attempt to raise fine flowers or good vegetables on 

 a poor soil. Always keep a heap or manure on hand for the next season, when it will be thoroughly 

 rotted and ready for use. If these points are overlooked, and the seed sown too early, it is apt to rot 

 or perish, and consequently involve a loss and sad disappointment on the part of the cultivator, and it ii 

 not the fault of the seed or seedsmen, as it is unfortunately laid a great many times. However, in all 

 cases, follow as nearly as possible the directions of each variety, as given in the Catalogue, and you will 

 have a marked success. By sowing everything, as much as possible in drills, instead of broadcast, a great 

 deal of labor will be saved, as all can be kept clear of weeds by the hoe and hand cutivator. 



COVERING OR MULCHING SEED AFTER SOWING. 



When fine seeds are sown, dry not weather, and hard beating rains, can soon do much damage to the 

 tender seedlings, in drying up the tender sprouts, or baking the top of the soil. To mulch with clippings 

 of grass or some other material till plants are coming up is a good idea. We have used narrow strips of 

 thin boards with good success by laying them over the row where seeds are sown, and when seeds begin to 

 sprout, the boards can be raised a little and something laid imder to give the plants air, and this is bet- 

 ter than to remove boards too suddenly, as it gives plants time to harden. When well up, it is best to 

 remove boards in the evening or during cloudy weather. 



THINNING PLANTS. 



Is a very important operation. Everything ought to be thirmed very early, even in seed leaf, if the 

 plants stand too close. Another thinning may be necessary when they are more advanced to give them 

 room to grow stalky. All plants, when crowded together, run up tall and slender, and never succeed well. 



TRANSPLANTING. 



In transplanting, the main points to be regarded are, care in taking up the plants so as to avoid in- 

 jury to the roots, planting firmly so as to enable the plant to take a secure hold of the soil, reducing the 

 top to prevent evaporation, and shading to prevent the sun from withering and blighting the leaves. In 

 transplanting from a hot-bed, harden the plants by letting them get quite dry a day or two before, but 

 give an abundance of water every few hours before they are taken out. It is most apt to be successful 

 if done just at evening, or immediately before or during the first part of a rain, about the worst time 

 being just after a rain, when the ground being wet it is impossible to sufficiently press it about the 

 plant without its baking hard. If water is to be used at all, it should be used freely, and the wet surface 

 immediately covered with dry soil. 



HOT-BEDS. 



The hot-bed is made by forming a pile of horse manure with the straw used for bedding or leaves some 

 three feet in height, and about 12 or 18 inches larger all around than the size of the frame to be used. 

 Shake all together, so that the straw and manure will be equally mixed. It may be sunk in the ground 

 a foot or eighteen inches, or made on the surface. Place the frame on as soon as the bed is made and fill 

 it with about 5 or 6 inches of good mellow soil, keeping the frame closed for a few days until fermenta- 

 tion takes place and the soil is quite warm. It is better to wait a day or two after this and then sow the 

 seeds. The frame can be constructed by any handy man at very small expense. It consists of a wooden 

 frame, from 3 to 6 feet wide, and from 6 to 16 feet long, according to the supply of vegetables or flowers 

 required. The back side should be at least 6 inches higher than the front— the frame sub-divided by cross- 

 bars and each division covered by a glazed sash. The frame should face the south or southeast. From the 

 time the seed is sown, attention to airing and shading during the hot part of the day, and covering up at 

 night, is essential, and also that the soil never be allowed to get dry. The watering should be done with 

 a very fine rose watering pot, and with tepid water. The temperature at night may range from 55 to 65 

 degrees, and during the day from 70 to 80. 



COLD FRAMES. 



A cold frame is so easy in construction and management as to be available to all. This is simply a 

 hot-bed frame wdth glazed sash, placed upon a bed of fine mellow earth, in some sheltered place in the 

 garden. After the frame is secured in its place, a couple of inches of fine earth should be placed inside, 

 and the frame closed up a day or two before the seeds are planted. As the cold frame depends upon the 

 sun for its warmth, it must not be started as soon as the hot-bed, and in this latitude the latter part of 

 April is soon enough. Watering occasionally will be necessary, and air must be given in bright warm days. 

 Shade is also necessary. 



