THE BLUE BOOK OF BULBS 



earlier, and are more likely to be affected by the frosty nights in 

 early spring, after the beds have been uncovered. 



Any ordinary garden soil is suitable for bulbs, providing it is 

 in friable condition. For Daffodils, a rich, deep, maiden loam is 

 advisable, as the bulbs are to remain in the ground for two or 

 three years, after which time, and when the foliage has ripened, 

 they should be lifted and divided, and then replanted. Unless 

 stable manure is well rotted or spaded in deeply, it is better to 

 use bone meal as a fertilizer for bulbs. Tulips, particularly 

 the single early varieties, become subject to disease if planted 

 too often in the same soil, and the majority of failures with 

 these bulbs can be avoided by planting in virgin soil. 



The depth at which to plant is noted under the various head- 

 ings to each class of bulbs. In order that the bulbs may be 

 planted at a uniform depth, it is best to remove the soil to the 

 required depth, set the bulbs at the proper distances apart, 

 then carefully replace the soil. An inch of sharp sand, spread 

 evenly before setting the bulbs, will be of marked benefit in 

 providing drainage. The use of a dibble demands care to avoid 

 leaving the bulb "hung" so that the base does not come in 

 contact with the soil. A little sand dropped into the hole is a 

 good plan. A broad trowel is better than the dibble, if pains 

 are taken to plant the bulbs at a uniform depth. 



After planting, a cover of long straw, salt hay, leaves or litter 

 of some light kind should be placed over the beds or borders as 

 soon as the ground freezes enough to create a thin crust. If the 

 cover is put on sooner, the bulbs are likely to suffer from the 

 ravages of field-mice, which are especially fond of Crocus bulbs. 

 Ordinary moth-balls, partly crushed and scattered through the 

 surface soil at planting keep mice, moles or squirrels from feed- 

 ing on the bulbs. 



The cover should be removed early, although it is safest to 

 have protection at hand for freezing weather. No water should be 

 allowed to stand on the beds after the bulbs have been planted, 

 and if natural drainage is wanting, the beds should be raised a 

 few inches above the ground level. Sometimes Tulips suffer in 

 the spring, after the winter cover is removed. Just as the bud is 

 coming through the surface of the soil, water collects in the folds 

 of the leaves, and a sharp frost then may destroy the flower. 



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