GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



29 



left as they are. The shortened branches may be left from 

 two to ten inches long, always retaining some of the eyes. It ' 

 shonld not be forgotten that cutting the branches weakens a 

 tree, and that retaining them has the opposite effect. In this 

 operation, therefore, the healthy growth, as well as the form 

 of the stock, should be considered. "When the stem is strong, 

 it will not suffer from the removal of the lateral branches 

 from the neck up to the place intended for the graft. In 

 short, strong stems should be cut closely, weakly ones only 

 partially, and poor ones as little as possible. In cutting away 

 a branch entirely, it is well to leave a small portion with a 

 bud on it at the base. In making the cut, the direction of the 

 pruning-knife should be from below upwards, as it requires 

 Tery great skill to make a clean cut in the other direction, 

 and avoid tearing the wood. To prevent the growth of useless 

 thick branches near the terminal shoot, the buds on that part 

 should be pinched off in the spring. The young leading 

 shoot should be trimmed moderately; its branches being 

 shortened where they are too long, and the others left as they 

 are. It should not be topped until it has grown at least a foot 

 beyond the height intended for the graft. 



Preparation of the Stoch for Grafting. 

 Whether the stock shall be headed down or not will depend 

 on the mode of grafting employed. The removal of the head^ 

 indispensable in crown-grafting, is effected at the moment of 

 commencing the operation, as the wound is then not likely to 

 become inflamed, being covered immediately with the grafting- 

 wax, as soon as the graft is in position. However, when large 

 trees are grafted, they should be cut some weeks beforehand ; 

 and the same may be said of all kinds of grafting which are 

 done at the time when the sap begins to flow, and which 

 require the stock to be cut in this way. During the dead 



