150 



THE AUT OF 



the sap at last comes into something like a condition of har- 

 mony or equality in both stock and scion. Stirring np the 

 soil around the roots a few days before grafting tends to pro- 

 mote the activity of the sap ; repeating the operation the day 

 after will serve to maintain the growth and favour the union 

 of the graft. It would not be prudent to bud when the sap is 

 fcoo abundant, as it would smother the bud. Failure need not 

 be feared if the operator waits till the sap has lost somewhat 

 of its activity, when the bark no longer detaches itself freely 

 from the wood, and the mornings become cool. In shield- 

 budding, from the middle of August to the middle of Sep- 

 tember, kinds which vegetate to a late period of the season, 

 care must be taken to assist the union of the graft by tying 

 the branches of the stock together at the time of grafting. As 

 soon as the grafting is completed, the ends of these branches 

 are cut off for one-third of their length ; the flow of the sap 

 will thereby be arrested, and the union of the graft will be the 

 result. Subjects of a luxuriant habit of growth should be 

 treated in this manner. Two or three weeks after budding, 

 the subjects should be gone over, and, where the buds have 

 missed, the stocks should be rebudded. The failures are 

 easily recognised by their black or wrinkled bark. But, as 

 the sap has by this time almost ceased to flow, the last currents 

 of it, so to speak, must be sought at the neck of the lateral 

 branch, or on the stem under the base of a vigorous branch. 

 Certain kinds of roses succeed best with this late budding. 



Treatment after Budding. 



Those stocks which are rich in sap when budded late should 

 have the ends of the branches lopped or clipped if they are in 

 a shady position, or if the mass of their leafy branches prevents 

 a free circulation of air around the graft. If this were done 

 with vigorous stocks, budded earlier, there would be danger 



