CURRANT. 



produced in every year cut down to a bud or two ; 

 and the leader or any reserved shoot cut down to 

 half its length. The spurs on the branches should be 

 kept short : old ones cut out, and the whole kept in 

 snug and healthy order. By this mode of pruning, 

 the trees, when finished, look more like worthless 

 stumps than fruit trees ; but the crops they bear 

 are far superior to those from larger and handsomer 

 looking trees. 



Although the currant is usually pruned as above 

 described, that is, like a low bush, it may also be 

 trained as an espalier, or on walls. As wall trees, 

 they are useful in a family. If planted on a south 

 aspect they ripen a week or ten days sooner than in 

 the open ground ; and on a north aspect they not 

 only remain longer in season, but may be conveni- 

 ently covered up, and thereby preserved till late in 

 the autumn. Every vacant space between old wall trees 

 on any aspect may be occupied by currant trees if 

 required, whether for early or for very late crops. 

 The best figure of training for these situations, is 

 with two main branches turned right and left hori- 

 zontally at bottom, and bearing branches led from 

 these perpendicularly, at eight or ten-inch distances. 



The currant may also be successfully forced in 

 pots. In these the plants should be established for 

 at least a year previous to their introduction into the 

 forcing house. A cherry house, or second division 

 of the peachery, is the most suitable for the currant ; 

 it cannot bear quick forcing, especially when in 



