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TOMATOES FOR MARKET AND CANNING 



Frames should be well matted up at night to protect from frost. 

 Several years ago, I lost a fine frame of plants by neglecting to do 

 this, when a little extra covering would have saved them. At this 

 time of the year, water sparingly. I water just often enough to keep 

 them growing nicely. The less water you give, and still keep them 

 growing, the better, but do not withhold water until they are yellow 

 and stunted, for such plants are slow to start in the field. 



As the season advances, we shift the sash to other frames and 

 cover with a heavy grade of cotton cloth, stripping this off during 

 the day, and finally leaving off entirely for a few nights before setting 

 plants in the field, to finish hardening them. If they have been 

 properly grown as to water and ventilation, they will have a blue 

 cast, and at this time they should show bud and blossom. Some 

 growers try to advance them so far as to have small green fruit. 

 This is not practicable with this size pot, and where this is practiced, 

 they should be started somewhat earlier in a larger pot; for in this 

 size pot they would have to be held too long and become stunted. 

 It has been my experience to have them at the bud and blossom 

 stage, rather than farther advanced. 



SETTING IN THE FIELD 



Pot plants never wilt when being set in the field, therefore, we 

 save the first buds and blossoms, which are very essential in making 

 an early crop. We mark ground four feet apart each way and furrow 

 out long ways of the field. The soil best adapted for an early crop 

 is gravel or light sandy loam that contains a good supply of humus, 

 and I might say it could hardly be too rich. If not good strong soil, 

 it should be enriched with well rotted manure in the furrow, also 

 applying a handful of fertilizer, analyzing 4-8-7. Mix both thor- 

 oughly with the soil before setting plant. 



We give plants a good wetting down, and then they are placed on 

 a flat rack and drawn to the field. They are distributed at the 

 crossmarks, and the plant setters follow, using garden trowels. If 

 paper has not already rotted from the bottom of the pot, it is torn 

 off, the sides being used to wrap around the stem of the plant, just 

 above the ground to protect from cut worms. This has been found 

 quite effective. 



CULTIVATION 



As soon as the field is set, cross cultivation is given with a large 

 cultivator, to fill in the furrows. A few days after, we apply a table- 

 spoonful of nitrate of soda, scattered around the plant. Care sho 



