COLE'S HINTS ON TRANSPLANTING. 



79 



Hints on Sowing Seeds, Transplanting 

 and Making Hotbeds, Etc, 



SOWING THE SEED AND PREPARING THE SOIL. 



The.se are very iinportaut matters and care should be taken to have your seed bed finely 

 raked and free from all rubbish and lumps and well enriched with well-rotted manure, 

 and also not to sow seed to early, or in other words, until the soil becomes sufiicientlv 

 warm and dry, so that it will work mellow and crumble to pieces when struck with the 

 spade. Do not attempt to raise fine flowers or good vegetables on a poor soil. Always keep 

 a heap of manure on hand for the next season, when it will be thoroughly rotted and 

 ready for use. If these points are overlooked, and the seed sown too early, it is apt to rot 

 or perish, and consequently involve a loss and sad disappointment on the part of the culti- 

 vator, and It is not the fault of the seed or seedsmen, as it is unfortunately laid a great 

 many times. However, in all cases, follow as nearly as possible the directions of each 

 variety, as given in the Catalogue, and you will have a marked success. By sowing every- 

 thing, as much as possible in drills, instead of broadcast, a great deal of labor will hv 

 saved, as all can be kept clear of weeds by ihe hoe and hand cultivator. 



COVERING OR MULCHING SEED AFTER SOWING. 



When fine seeds are sown, dry hot weather, and hard beating rains, can soon do much 

 damage to the tender seedlings, in drying up the tender sprouts, or baking the top of the 

 soil. To mulch with clippings of grass or some other material till plants are coming up 

 is a good idea. We have used narrow strips of thin boards with good success by laying thcin 

 over the row where seeds are sown, and when seeds begin to sprout, the boards can be 

 raised a little and something laid under to give the plants air, and this is better than to 

 remove boards too suddenly, as it gives plants time to harden. When welL v.p, it is best 

 to remove boards in the evening or during cloudy weather. 



THINNING PLANTS. 



Is a very important operation. Everything ought to be thinned very early, even in seed 

 leaf, if the plants stand too close. Another thinning may be necessary when they are more 

 advanced to give them room to grow stalky. All plants, when crowded togeiher, run up 

 tall and slender, and never su< ceed well. 



TRANSPLANTING. 



In transplanting, the main points to be regarded are, cai-e in taking up the plants so 

 ns to avoid injury to the roots, planting firmly so as to enable the plant to take a secure 

 hold of the soil, reducing the top to prevent evaporation, and shading to prevent the sun 

 from withering and blighting the leaves. In transplanting from a hot-bed, narden tie 

 plants by lotting them get Quite dry a day or two before, but give an abundance of water 

 every few .hours before they are taken out. It is most apt to be successful if done just 

 at evening, or immediately before or during the first part of a rain, about the worst time 

 being just after a rain, when the ground being wet it is imnossible to suflicienlly press it 

 about the plant Avithout its baking hard. If water is to be used at all, it should be used 

 freely, and the wet surface immediately co^s ered with dry soil. 



HOT-BEDS. 



The hot-bed is made by forming a pile of horse manure with the straw used for bed- 

 ding or leaves some three feet in height, and about 12 or 18 inches larger all around than 

 the size of the frame to be used. Shake all together, so that the straw and manure will 

 be equally mixed. It may be sunk in the ground a foot or eighteen inches, or made on 

 the surface. Place the frame on as soon as the bed is made and fill it with about 5 or 6 

 inches of good mellow soil, keeping the frame closed for a few days until fermentation 

 takes place and the soil is quite warm. It is better to wait a day or two after this and 

 then sow the seeds. The frame can be constructed by any handy man at very small ex- 

 pense. It consists of a wooden frame, from 3 to 6 feet wide, and from 6 to 16 feet long, 

 according to the supply of vegetables or fiowers required. The back side should be at least 

 6 inches higher than the front— the frame sub-divided b.v cross-bars and each division cov- 

 ered by a glazed sash. The frame should face the south or southeast. I|^'om the time the 

 seed is sown, attention to airing and shading during the hot part of the flay, and covering 

 up at night, is essential, and also that the soil never be allowed to get dry. The watering 

 should be done with a very fine rose waterin.g pot, and with tepid water. The temperature 

 at night may range from 55 to 65 degrees, an > (Iumi g the day from 70 to SO. 



COLD FRAMES. 



A cold frame is so easy in construction and management as to be available to all. This 

 is simply a hot-bed frame with glazed sash, placed upon a bed of fine mellow earth, in some 

 sheltered place in the garden. After the frame is secured in its place, a couple of inches 

 of fine earth should be placed Inside, and the frame closed up a day or two before the seeds 

 are planted. As the cold frame depends upon the sun for its warmth, it must. not be started 

 as soon as the hot-bed, and in this latitude the latter part of April is soon enough. Wat- 

 ering occasionally will be necessary, and air must bo given in bright warm days. Shade 

 is also necessary. 



