46 



FIG TOE I AL FBACTICAL BULB GROWING, 



become established in these pots a temperature of from 50?^ to 60^^ 

 will suffice. In their earlier stages of growth Amaryllis seedlings 

 do not require the winter re-t that is so essential a part of the 

 culture of old bulbs. During the winter, however, less warmth 

 and moisture are needed. Further potting must follow as the 

 demands of the plants dictate. 



Now turn to bulbs of a flowering size and age. Early in the 

 new year they should be shiken out of the exhausted soil, and 

 potted in a compost of 2 parts loam, 1 part decayed cow manure, and 

 a good sprinkling of sand. Where there are facilities for so doing, 

 it is a capital plan to stack the turves of loam, with layers of fresh 

 cow manure between, six months before the soil is needed ; this 

 advice applies with equal force to many other subjects that like rich 

 feeding. Crock the pots well, and pot the bulbs firmly. Do not 

 fall into the frequent error of overpotting. Bulbs w^e may expect to 

 flow^er for the first time will generally find accommodation in 5-inch 

 pots, and those a size larger may be placed in pots with a diameter 

 of G inches. The largest bulbs should be reserved for 8-inch .pots, and 

 it will be in very rare cases that a 9-inch pot will be required. This, 

 of course, has reference only to single bulbs ; it is quite open to 

 an} one to put several bulbs in a pot of a larger size, but this form of 

 culture has little to commend it. 



At the conclusion of potting, each bulb should stand with its neck, 

 and the whole of its upper surface, above the soil. Plunge the pots 

 to the rim in spent tan or cocoanut- fibre refuse where there is a 

 slight bottom heat, but the temperature of the house or pit should 

 be an intermediate one, the object being to secure good root action 

 before the spikes appear. No water must be given until spikes or 

 leaves have made some slight progress, hence it is necessary that the 

 soil be moderately moist at potting time. The hurry to give water 

 at a time w'hen there are neither roots nor leaves to use it has proved 

 a stumbling-block in many cases. 



The large, handsome, broadly trumpet shaped flow^ers will expand 

 about March or April, but it is easy to delay the flowering, by cooler 

 conditions, if such be deemed desirable. Plenty of fresh air, but 

 no draughts, should be an accompaniment of the season of fiowers, 

 as the plants will then sufier no harm if placed in the conservatory 

 for a week or so. After flowering there must be a return to the old 

 (quarters, and the provision of a higher temperature with additional 

 moisture ; frequent syringings are advisable to. secure free growth, 

 and to keep down insect pests. As soon as leaf growth is complete 

 reduce the water sui)ply, and cease to syringe. Continue the 

 reduction gradually until the leaves are yellow^, when watering must 

 cease entirely for the season, and abundance of air and full sunshine 

 n.ust be permitted to play upon the plants to ripen and solidify the 

 bulbs. Ptemove the stock from the plunge bed, and w'inter it in a 

 temperature of from 45^ to SC. 



It is only justice to state that the principal raisers of Amaryllises 

 in this country are Messrs. J. Veitch and ^Sons, of Chelsea, and 



