59 



TWIG BUD. 



This is an old and simple method, practiced among florists and nursery- 

 men with plants that are difficult to bud or graft in the ordinary way. The 

 bud is cut, as shown in the illustration, Figure No. 21, which is the scion. 

 The cut is made deep into the wood, in order to give the bud as much bark 

 as possible. The leaves are partly cut off, leaving at least a half inch of 

 the leaf on the bud to prevent the bud from drying. Then, with the sharp 

 point of the budding knife, the greatest part of the wood inside of the bud 

 is removed, as shown in Figure No. 23. If part of the wood is not removed, 

 then the bud cannot take, as the wood in it prevents the two barks (the 

 inner bark of the bud and the inner bark of the stock) from uniting. When 

 the wood has been partly removed from the bud, the bud is inserted into 

 the stock, as budding is done in the regular ordinary way, and tied tight. 

 At the end of three weeks the string is removed, and part of the top of the 

 stock is cut back to force the bud to start. As the bud grows, the foliage 

 of the stock is gradually removed, until the bud is able to take up the 

 entire flow of sap. It is then left to grow, and trained, as shown in Figure 

 No. 24. When the bud has grown and become stocky, what remains of 

 the stock above the bud is cut smooth, close to the bud, to allow it to heal 

 over. This process is performed at any time of the year when the sap 

 flows freely. If done late in the summer the buds must be left to lie dor- 

 mant through the winter. Best results are obtained when the buds are 

 inserted early in the spring of the year, as the operation can be performed 

 to a much better advantage, and the buds will grow to some height before 

 the winter months set in. When inserted in large orchard trees, or in 

 limbs of large trees, they are left to grow until they have attained such a 

 size as will justify in the removal of the entire top. 



EYE BUDDING. 



This new method of "eye budding" has been brought into practice by 

 Mr. Charles A. Wetmore, of Livermore, President of the Board of State 

 Viticultural Commissioners, although a similar method has been practiced, 

 but not on the olive, called ring budding, and differs from the fact that the 

 bark of the stock is not used to protect the bud, as in this method. In this 

 method the bud is removed (every leaf is a bud) as shown in Figure No. 

 25. The leaf is cut off close to the bud, then the bud is removed, as shown 

 in the illustration (the buds do not grow where the bud is removed, as 

 shown in Figure No. 25; this is only intended to show how the buds are 

 removed from the scion), and a similar cut is made in the stock. The 

 lower part is not cut, but the flap (or bark) is turned down, and the bud 

 inserted, as shown in Figures Nos. 26 and 27. It does not matter if the 

 buds do not fit (the bud should always be a little smaller than the space 

 in which it is inserted). This being done, the flap (or bark) is turned up, 

 covering the bud entirely; then it is tied tight with heavy twine. The 

 twine for this purpose should not be less than eighteen ply. The success 

 of the operation lies in the tying. If it should not be tied tight the bud 

 will surely die. Mr. Wetmore found that the best way was to throw the 

 twine in water, and tie it while wet. After the bud has been inserted two 

 weeks, the string is removed, and a week or so after that the tree is girdled 

 above the bud, to force it to start. This girdling consists of a ring of bark 

 being removed from the stock, being cut an inch or so above the bud. 

 Care should be taken not to injure (by scraping) the wood after the ring 

 is removed, as this would kill the inner bark, and cause the tree to die back 



