135 



possible at tlie same grade, the air begins to rush out from tlie free 

 extremity of the worm ; and gradually, the rising steam warms the 

 capital, and there trickles from the worm a weak, unsavoury bran- 

 dy, which is caught and set aside to be re-distilled or rectified. The 

 spirit which succeeds this, is the finest, and is called proof brandy ; 

 the quantity of it is increased by a careful attention to the regularity 

 of the fire. 



By tasting, trying, &c. it is discovered when this first brandy is fol- 

 lowed by a weaker kind containing more water ; the first is set eiside, 

 and the second quality is caught by the receiver. The further the 

 distillation advances, the more water is contained in the product ; 

 finally it reaches that point that the distillation contains no longer any 

 spirit ; this is discovered by the taste, and by throwing a few drops 

 ©f it on the capital, it turns into steam, which burns with a blue flame 

 ^ on the approach of a lighted candle if it contains spirit ; if not, it 

 will not kindle. In the latter case, the fire is immediately put out, and 

 the refuse is drawn from the boiler. 



The quantity of proof bi andy is in ratio of the quality of the wine. 

 In the department of Charente, for instance, a boiler containing 60 

 gallons gives from 23 to 28 quarts proof spirit } that is to say about 

 one tenth of its bulk of proof brandy, and a little more, of second- 

 proof. In Gard and Herault, from 60 gallons they obtain 12 quarts 

 of proof brandy and the same proportion of second-proof. The second- 

 proof brandy or feint as it is called, is rectified with a slow fire to 

 obtain the alcohol ; sometimes the feint is put in with the next por- 

 tion of wine into the still. 



Whatever the brandy is distilled from, whether from the wine, the 

 murk, or the lees, it is put for preservation into casks ; there it acts 

 upon the wood and acquires a peculiar flavour according as the casks 

 are of beech or oak, which is called the smack of the staves; it be- 

 comes also yellowish-tinted, which can only be prevented by keep- 

 ing it in vessels of glass or metal, a mode too expensive or too ha- 

 zardous in case of transportation. 



Brandies put into new barrels draw the sap from the staves, and while 

 they deepen in colour, lose a portion of their strength. To prevent dis- 

 appointments on its arrival in distant places, if brandy of any parti- 

 cular rate of proof has been ordered, it will be necessary to soak 

 the casks in bad brandy, or else put up a brandy of a proof a little 

 higher than the order. 



With the old still, all the brandies made for sale had a flavour of 

 burning, almost inseparable. To this, northern consumers had be- 

 •■•ome so accustomed, that for a long time after the new distilling ap- 



