CHAPTER III. 



VARIOUS USES OP THE MUST.. 



Marmalade. — With the must, various excellent marmalades are 

 made; that of Montpelier enjoys the highest name ; it is made from 

 white grapes, boiled in the must to a clear jelly and scented with Ci- 

 tron and cedraty. The marmalade of L'Yonne and Loiret depart- 

 ments, though esteemed, is inferior to the former; it is a little move tart 

 and mixed with stone and seed fruits. 



The pears used for this purpose, are the Cressane, Ecrgamot. 

 the Jargonelle, the Virgouleuse, the winter Bo7i Chretien, the Rus- 

 seting, or other firm kinds. Quinces are thought the most suitable 

 mixture in marmalades ; apples and plums come next ; and lastly pump- 

 kins, the rinds of green mangoes and melons,'and sugar}^ roots, such 

 as carrots, parsnips &c. These fruits must be selected very sound, cut 

 small, and spread out on fair straw to mellow before used. Table fruit 

 is not fit for marmalade ; it is only fruit in an acerb state that suits ; 

 that which falls before ripening is put aside for this purpose. The 

 fruit must be pared perfectly, and the seeds, stones, and hearts, cut out. 



In the North and South both, two sorts of marmalade are prepared, 

 simple and compound. That made at the South, does not require as 

 much cooking as that at the North. It contains, all other things be- 

 ing equal, less water, tartar and extractive matter, and more sugar. 

 Parmentier has described the two modes; and my reader will thank 

 me for giving the very words of this amiable and excellent man whose 

 whole life was devoted to useful pursuits, and the means of turning to 

 advantage every article of rural economy, 



" For the siiuple marmalade of the South, take 6 gallons of must ; 

 one half must be put in a preserving pan over a quick fire, and the 

 other half be gradually added every time the liquid boils up ; this boil- 

 ing liquor must not be lost sight of for a moment, and the scum must 

 be removed as fast as it rises ; and it must be strained hot through a 

 thick cloth. It must then be put back on the fire, and constantly 

 stirred with a wooden spaddle until it isb.oiled to a jelly ; this is fount! 

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