LETTUCE 



1. Great Lakes 2. Oak Leaf 3. Imperial 

 No. 847 4. White Paris Cos 



KALE OR BORECOLE 



Requires moist, well enriched soil. 

 Pick leaves as wanted, or pull whole 

 plant. Leaves are best after a frost. 

 Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch — Wide 

 spreading, fine curled blue-green plant 

 plume-like leaves. Use as a vegetable 

 and for ornament. Exceptionally uni- 

 form. 55 days. 



KOHLRABI 



Sow early as possible in light, rich 

 soil. When plants are in the third leaf, 

 thin to 6" apart. Plant at intervals of 

 io days for succession of bulbs until 

 hot weather — after which they do not 

 grow. Use while still young and 

 tender, before skin hardens. 



White Vienna Early (£r) — 8 to 10-in. 



leaves on slender stems. Bulbs 2 to 

 3-in. ( globular, light green. Crisp, ten- 

 der, clear white flesh. 55 to 60 days. 



LEEK 



Large American Flag — Early, thick, long 

 white stems. Leaves large and drooping, 

 medium green. 130 days. 



LETTUCE 



Keep lettuce growing rapidly for best 

 results. A light, rich soil needed for 

 this. Earliest varieties must be started 

 from seed in cold-frame. As soon as 

 open ground can be worked, trans- 

 plant. For later use, sow seed in open 

 ground as soon as weather is favor- 

 able. Thin plants in rows 4" to 8" 

 depending on variety. 



Heading or Cabbage 



Bibb — Early, small headed lettuce of 

 excellent guality and flavor. Perfect for 

 home gardens. Very smooth, dark green 

 leaves, bleaching to a rich yellow. 



Big Boston or Mammoth Boston — Pop- 

 ular for cold frame forcing and outside 

 culture. Medium compact heads with 

 creamy, yellow heart. Smooth, glossy 

 leaves, edges wavy, and slightly tinged 

 with reddish brown. 75 days. 



- Great Lakes — All-America award. An 

 outstanding new Iceberg or Crisp-head 

 type. A summer lettuce that stands heat 

 well and in very resistant to tip burn. 

 Heads medium size, solid, crisp. 



Iceberg — Late, large variety. Compact 

 heads, crumpled, crisp and sweet. 

 Leaves light green, slightly brown on 

 edges. 85 days. 



How? When? 



HOME GARDENING GUIDE 



Transplanting 



DON'T assume that transplanting is worth 

 doing foi itself alone. Transplanting is 

 liko an operation to a human being: the 

 plant must recover from post-operative 

 shock before it can take hold and start 

 growing again. The only value in trans- 

 planting is that it allows you to use 

 larger plants — important in short seasons. 

 If there is ever any guestion as to 

 whether to direct-seed or to transplant, 

 always direct-seed unless quicker ma- 

 turity is a factor. Even tomatoes, the 

 crop most often transplanted, will usually 

 produce as quickly from seed sown in 

 the open as they will from transplants, 

 which must grow new roots before they 

 can begin growing again. 



Use good seedlings if you must trans- 

 plant. They should be medium green 

 in color, not too tall, and the leaves 

 should be free from spots or dead areas. 

 Avoid seedlings that are reddened or 

 purplish in color, or show signs of yellow- 

 ing (except in the case of celery plants, 

 which can be quite yellow and still be 

 good). 



If you want to grow your own trans- 

 plants to get healthy stock, follow these 

 directions: 

 N 



DON'T BEGIN too soon, unless you have 

 a greenhouse or light hotbed and can 

 give the seedlings plenty of room. For 

 most vegetables, 6 to 7 weeks is time 

 enough to allow between seeding and 

 transplanting. Most homes are too dark, 

 so don't try to grow seedlings unless 

 you can do it in a sunny window that 

 gets direct sunshine for at least six hours. 



Fill shallow boxes (flats) with a mixture 

 of 1/3 good garden soil, 1/3 clean sand 

 and 1/3 compost, leaf mould or other 

 well-rooted organic matter. Make very 

 shallow rows or furrows with the edge of 

 a ruler or a wood lath, 3" apart. Sow 

 seeds in these rows 1" apart in the row. 



DON'T let your soil dry out, and don't 

 let it be soggy. Spray lightly two or 

 three times a day, using an atomizer or 

 bulb sprinkler. When the best seedlings 

 can be selected, thin out to stand 2" to 3" 

 apart. Before transplanting into the gar- 

 den, withhold water for 2 or 3 days. In 

 transplanting, set the plants firmly by 

 pressing on both sides of the stem with 

 forefinger and thumb. If not firmed thor- 

 oughly, seedling may be killed by being 

 hung with an air space underneath. 



Always try to save as many leaves and 

 roots as possible. Scientific tests show 



Imperial No. 847 (Florida Iceberg) — 



Heads are of good size and solid. Does 

 well in hot weather and is resistant to 

 tip burn. Very hardy. 83 days. 

 New York No. 12 — The standard crisp- 

 head lettuce. Large globular shaped 

 head, dark green with blanched, silvery 

 white heart. Successfully grown out- 

 doors spring summer and fall. 85 days. 

 White Paris Cos or Trianon — Medium 

 large self-folding, dark green loaf 

 shaped heads. Greenish-white, well 

 blanched interior. 66 days. 



Loose Leaf Vaieties 



Black Seeded Simpson — Light green, 



frilled and crumpled. 45 days. 



Grand Rapids — Erect, compact plants. 

 Light green, broad heavily fringed. For 

 forcing or early planting. 43 days. 

 Oak Leaf — The most popular leaf lettuce 

 for home gardens. Rick, dark green 

 leaves, tender and delicious. Outstand- 

 ing resistance to hot weather. 

 Prizehead — Early non-heading sort. 

 Medium sized plants, crisp and tender. 

 Color light brown on a medium green 

 base. Leaves frilled at edges, and 

 crumpled. 47 days. 



MANGEL WURZEL 



(See Beets, Stock) 



MELONS 

 Muskmelon and Cantaloupe 



Requires long season to develop and 

 is easily injured by frost, or even by 

 cool weather. Before planting, spade 

 in liberal forkful of well rotted ma- 

 nure in each hill. Thin plants to 4 per 

 hill after third leaf develops, and train 

 vines in different dirctions. Cultivate 

 as long as possible. On moist ground 

 use shingles to hold melons off ground 

 to prevent rotting. 



Bender's Surprise — Similar to Tip Top. 

 Coarse netted 7-lb., oblong fruit, distinct- 

 ly ribbed hard greenish-yellow skin. 

 Flesh bright salmon. 95 days. 



Continued on Page 16 



Where? Why? 



that it is better to allow the transplant to 

 wilt slightly than to remove leaves to 

 prevent that wilting. Removing leaves 

 slows up manufacture of plant food that 

 will help plant recover. Liberal watering 

 should prevent wilting. 



After Transplanting 



As soon as the garden has been planted, 

 water thoroughly but gently with a fine 

 spray. This, by the way, is the only time 

 we sprinkle a garden; once the plants 

 are established, any watering should give 

 the soil a good soaking. If a crust forms 

 after watering, break this by working 

 with a hoe or cultivator on both sides of 

 the row. 



In the case of slow-germinating seeds 

 like carrots and parsnips, mixing a few 

 radish seeds in the packet will mark the 

 row early. Otherwise you may have to 

 delay cultivation until too late to do a 

 good job of weed control. 



DON'T take it for granted that cultivation 

 will substitute for watering. Tests prove 

 that pulverized soil loses just as much 

 water after working as before. The real 

 reason for cultivating is to destroy weeds. 

 Weeds shade desirable plants, rob them 

 of moisture and use up soil plant food. 



