ONION PLANTS 



Sturdy, hardy plants that come to you 

 all ready to set out. Ask for prices. 



ONION SETS 



Onion sets used instead of seeds will 

 produce earlier crops of green onions 

 or large bulbs. Plant sets right side 

 up and cover with garden rake; then 

 firm the soil well over the sets. 



The quickest way to get onions early. 



cffer zr.z:ze select, dry se:s, c: the 

 highest quality. (Prices on application.) 

 RED WHITE YELLOW 



PARSLEY 



Does best in rich, mellow loam. Seed 

 is slow to germinate, and is helped 

 by soaking in warm water over night 

 before planting. Sow early and not 

 too deeply. When curled varieties are 

 about 3" tall, cut off leaves. The new 

 growth will be brighter and curlier. 

 Moss Curled or Triple Curled — Com- 

 pact, dark green leaves, curled and fine- 

 cut. 70 days. 



PARSNIP 



Plant in rich, sandy loam, thoroughly 

 pulverized. Seed requires plenty of 

 moisture for germination and should be 

 sown early. Dig after a killing frost. 

 Freezing improves parsnips, so some 

 can be left in the ground all winter 

 and used in spring. For storage, bury 

 in dry sand. 



Hollow Crown (fr) — The most generally 

 grown kind. Roots 2V2 "to 3-in. thick at 

 shoulder. 12 to 14-in. long, uniformly 

 tapered, hollow crowned. 95 days. 



PEAS 



Early peas need a light, warm soil; 

 but general crop thrives best in mod- 

 erately heavy soil. (Avoid fresh ma- 

 nure and very rich or wet, mucky soil 

 as this produces large growth of vine 

 at the cost of quality of the peas.) 

 Plant seed in rows at 2" depth. Keep 

 rows 21" to 28" apart for dwarf va- 

 rieties and 28" to 42" for the taller 

 types. Gather crop as fast as it is fit 

 to use or new pods will cease to form 

 and continue growth. 



Early and Second Variety 



Alaska — Wilt resistant. Used for can- 

 ning and early home garden. Blunt, 

 straight, light-green, 3-in. pods Plants 

 32-in. 60 days. 



Laxton's Progress (fr) — Medium dark 

 green vine, 16 to 18-in. Single pods 

 almost an inch wide and AV2 to 5-in. 

 long with 7 to 9 large peas. 62 days. 

 Little Marvel (fr) — Outstanding, dwarf. 

 Fine quality, large yield. Single and 

 double, dark green, 3-in. pods — blunt, 

 plump, well filled with 7 to 8 medium 

 sized, light green tender peas. 62 days. 

 Thomas Laxton (fr) — Medium height. 

 Strong vine bears numerous dark green, 

 blunt ended pcds, 4 to 4 1 /2-in. Retains 

 flavor and sweetness. One of earliest. 

 57 days. 



Later Varieties 



Alderman or Dark-Podded Telephone 

 (fr) — Large podded variety of the Tele- 

 phone family. Excellent for home gar- 

 dens, truckers, shipping to distant mar- 

 kets and for freezing; resistant to 

 "Fusarium wilt Vine dark green, coarse. 



Pcds single very broad, plump,- 

 straight, dark green, pointed; contains 

 8 to 10 peas of highest quality. Seed 

 large, wrinkled, light green. 74 days. 

 Hundredfold or Laxtonian — Exception- 

 ally choice and prolific. Dark green. 

 Rather coarse vines. Straight pointed, 

 well-filled 2V2" pods. 62 days. 



Edible Podded or Sugar 



Mammoth Melting Sugar — Wilt resist- 

 ant. Coarse light-green vine, 54-in. 

 Single 4V2-in. pods, broad, indented, 

 light, blunt, stringless, without fiber, 

 fleshy. Contains 7 peas. Seed large, 

 round, creamy-v/hite. 74 days. 



PEPPERS 



Warm, mellow soil in sheltered loca- 

 tion is best. Start under glass. Culti- 

 vate regularly, drawing soil up around 

 stems. When plants are 7" to 8" tall, 

 hoe in light dressing of commercial 

 fertilizer. Do not plant hot peppers 

 near sweet; they are apt to cross. 



Sweet 



California Wonder Improved— Number 



one quality peppers, about 4-in. long 

 and 3V2-in. diameter, very smooth, 3 

 and 4 lobed, glossy green, turning 

 bright crimson when ripe. Remarkably 

 thick walls, tender, sweet. 75 days. 

 Pimento or Perfection — Best of the medi- 

 um sized sweet peppers. Excellent for 

 stuffing. Smooth, heart-shaped, about 

 3-in. long. 125 days. 

 Ruby King — All-America, bred for size 

 and uniformity. Dark green turning to 

 bright deep red fruit. Thick flesh sweet 

 and mild. 60 days. 



Continued on Page IQ 



HOME GARDENING GUIDE 



Continued from Page 15 

 PARSNIPS 



Must be planted as early as ground can 

 be worked. Soil must be loose to a 

 depth of 12" and cannot be heavy. Space 

 5" part. Cold weather turns starches into 

 sugar and improves flavor. Roots are 

 hardy: leave in ground over winter if 

 desired. 



PEAS 



Plant variety Alaska as soon as ground 

 can be dug. Plant wrinkled varieties 

 (which have better flavor) when narcissus 

 buds show color or when crocuses are in 

 bloom. Peas are not satisfactory when 

 weather turns hot. Tall varieties must be 

 staked. Most home gardeners prefer 

 dwarf varieties like Little Marvel. Peas 

 want well-limed soil. Don't forget, inocu- 

 lation improves production. 



PEPPERS 



Need long growing season: start indoors 

 8 weeks before plants are wanted. Set 

 out after petals on apple blossoms have 

 fallen. Set plants 15" x 24" and feed 

 liberally for bigger fruits. 



PUMPKINS 



Follow muskmelon culture, or plant in 

 corn after last cultivation. 



RADISHES 



As a rule the first crop to mature: plant 

 as early as scil can be dug. Feed liber- 

 ally for quick growth. Sow a 10 foot row 

 every ten days until weather turns 

 warm. Start planting again with the com- 

 ing of cool weather in fall. The fall and 

 winter types are sown in mid-summer to 

 mature in fall for storage. 

 N 



SPINACH 



Seed in fall (protect with straw) or in 

 very early spring. Must mature before 

 hot weather. 



Spinach (New Zealand) 



While this crop grows freely in hot 

 weather, it will not germinate except 

 when soil temperatures are below 70 

 degrees. Hence it should be sown with 

 the half-hardy crops — those that are 

 planted when the narcissi bloom. Plant 

 in soil with plenty of organic matter, 

 spacing the plants about 3 feet by 3 

 feet. Keep them cut back, since only the 

 young growing tips are eaten and long, 

 woody stems have little flavor. Many who 

 have tried a mixture of half Swiss Chard 

 and half New Zealand Spinach say that 

 this is better than either vegetable alone. 



SQUASH 



Follow culture given for muskmelon for 

 vine types. Grow bush types in rows, 

 spaced 24" apart. Keep picked. Will bear 

 all summer. 



TURNIPS 



Follow directions for radishes. Thinnings 

 can be cooked for greens. 



TOMATOES 



There are two schools of tomato culture — 

 those who stake and those who don't. 

 Reasons for and against are as follows: 



FOR STAKING: While staked plants pro- 

 duce fewer fruits per plant, they produce 

 more tomatoes for a given area. So if 

 room is at a premium, - it will pay to 

 stake. Staked plants usually produce 

 cieaner fruits and bear somewhat eariier. 



AGAINST: Staking calls for much extra 

 labor in staking, tying and pruning. The 

 total production per plant is higher in un- 

 staked and unpruned plants. If you have 

 plenty of room, the saving in labcr make3 

 the unstaked method the best. All com- 

 mercial canning crops of tomatoes are 

 grown in this way. 



If the ground under the vines is cov- 

 ered with a mulch of clean straw, this 

 will improve the quality of the fruits and 

 will also keep weeds down and save 

 moisture. 



When staking, set plants 18" apart in 

 the row, in rows 3 feet apart. Use a 7 

 foot stake, driven 1 foot into the ground. 



Tie plant to stake with soft twine or other 

 plant tie. Habit of growth calls for a side 

 shoot from the first point where a leaf 

 joins the main stem, another side shoot 

 from the second leaf joint, and a flower 

 cluster from the third joint. This 2-1 pat- 

 tern of growth is repeated up the entire 

 stem. 



The staked plant is allowed to grow 

 from the tip, and as it grows, the 

 stem is tied to the stake. As the side 

 shoots appear, these are pinched out or 

 rubbed off, leaving the flower clusters to 

 produce fruits. When training tomatoes to 

 stakes, be sure to leave all possible foliage 

 to hide the fruits from direct sunshine; 

 otherwise they will sunscald. 



When grown without staking, the vines 

 will sprawl on the ground. This means 

 they will need mere room. Three feet 

 between plants and four feet between 

 rows will not be too much ground to use 

 if you can spare the room. 



17 



