How? When? I Where? Why? 



COMPOSTING 



The compost heap is a "must" for the 

 permanent garden. Select a spot behind a 

 shed or otherwise hidden (if your garden 

 is in the open) and spread out your garden 

 wastes over this area in a layer six inches 

 deep. Use weeds, old vegetable and flower 

 plants, vegetable waste from the kitchen 

 and lawn clippings. Trimmings from lawn 

 edging are particularly valuable. 

 On each six inch layer, sprinkle a little 

 lime and a liberal amount of a good mixed 

 fertilizer. The fertilizer will feed the bac- 

 teria that cause the vegetable wastes to 

 decay. Then apply a layer of good garden 

 soil over the lime and fertilizer. Repeat 

 until the pile is two feet high. Wet down 

 if rain doesn't fall. 



In six months all weed seeds and other 

 vegetable matter will be broken down by 

 the bacteria into a rich home made "man- 

 nure" that will go a long ways towards 

 making yours a perfect soil. 

 You need not waste the space used for 

 the heap, since cucumbers, melons and 

 sguashes never grow as well as when 

 planted in shallow depressions in the 

 compost heap. 



"Long-pull" Fertilizers 



It is profitable to apply long-lasting fer- 

 tilizer to the permanent garden. 

 For instance, superphosphate or bone meal 

 may last for ten or fifteen years before 

 they are fully consumed. Also, potash 

 such as muriate or sulfate of potash 

 lasts a long time without washing away. 

 Use fertilizers liberally on the permanent 

 garden-it pays. 



Lime is also a "long-pull" fertilizer if it 

 is applied in the form of crushed or 

 pulverized limestone and not as the more 

 soluble slaked or quick limes. Any lime- 

 stone used should be especially prepared 

 for agricultural use, as other kinds may 

 be too coarse to do any good. 



Hotbeds and Cold Frames 



Normally, these do not pay if used only 

 for growing seedings, but the advanced 

 gardener will find them useful for pro- 

 tecting plants in fall, for storing winter 

 vegetables or for growing lettuce and 

 radishes until long after they are available 

 in the open garden. 



These should be located on the south 

 side of a hedge, fence or building to 

 break the wind, and must have at least 

 six hours of direct sunshine during the 

 day. 



Pit should be 24" deep. Fill to top with 

 fresh strawy horse manure and press 

 down six inches. Set frame over manure 

 and fill around outside and inside to level 

 of ground. Add three inches of sifted soil 

 inside frame. Heap leaves or straw around 

 outside to conserve heat. 

 If manure is not available, dried leaves 

 or chopped straw may be used by adding 

 a handful of ammonium nitrate or am- 

 monium sulfate to each bushel of leaves. 

 This will not, however generate as high 

 a heat as manure. 



As soon as frame is in place, water well, 

 insert thermometer in soil and cover with 

 sash, airing daily until thermometer drops 

 below 85 degrees. This is time to plant 

 tomatoes and peppers. For cabbage, cauli- 



flower, broccoli and kohlrabi, allow ther- 

 mometer to go below 75 degrees. 

 On sunny days ventilate thoroughly, but 

 even on cloudy days a crack of air may 

 be needed to get rid of ammonia odor. 



Drainage 



Low, wet spots will produce better crops 

 if drained by tiling. Oftentimes an open 

 trench leading water away from a low 

 spot can be filled with crushed stone or 

 gravel and will perform as well as more 

 elaborate tiling. 



Or the problem may be one of too much 

 drainage — a steep slope that allows water 

 to run off so rapidly that it causes washing 

 or erosion. Remember that not only does 

 surface washing carry off soil, but it also 

 carries with it the valuable soluble plant 

 foods as well. Grading and terracing may 

 be too costly for most gardens, but often- 

 times a simple plank set on edge will 

 control the rush of water and hold back 

 soil and plant foods. 



Garden Sanitation 

 Regular sanitation measures in the garden 

 will reduce the number of pests and weeds 

 that you will have to battle. Sanitation 

 means the removal of all dead plants and 

 weeds and the preventative treatment of 

 the garden with regular spraying to kill 

 the pests before they become serious. Re- 

 member that pest and weed control should 

 extend about 25 feet around the garden to 

 reduce the spread of them to the garden. 

 Don't Sprinkle — Irrigate. 



Don't Sprinkle — Irrigate 



What we are after is a long, slow soaking 

 of the soil so that water penetrates to a 

 depth of several inches. 



Water should always be applied so that 

 the roots will be lured downwards rather 

 than upwards as is the case when only 

 the surface is moistened. Properly done 

 watering need not be repeated oftener 

 than once or twice a week. 



In all the world, NO FINER FLOWER SEEDS THAN OURS! 



PETUNIA, All Double 



COSMOS, Dazzler 



- - •« ^ 



You may search the land 

 over, but you cannot find 

 flower seeds any better 

 than those we sell! We can 

 give you this absolute assur- 

 ance because we sell only 

 the tested seeds of the best 

 growers . . . and we always 

 make sure they are fresh, 

 new crop seeds. 



MARIGOLD, Sunkist 



LARKSPUR, Ruby 



PETUNIA, Glow 



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