How to Grow and Maintain a 

 Beautiful, Rich, Green Lawn! 



STARTING A NEW LAWN 



SOIL PREPARATION. Spade or plow the 

 area to a 6 or 8 inch depth. Pulverize the 

 soil thoroughly. A heavy clay soil can be 

 lightened by mixing with sand and hu- 

 mus. A light soil can be improved by 

 adding a top dressing of heavier soil. 

 For best results soil should be slightly 

 heavy. If the soil is acid, scatter crushed 

 limestone. 



Peat moss or Terralite are invaluable addi- 

 tions to both light and heavy soils be- 

 cause they help retain soil moisture with- 

 out allowing the water to be dissipated 

 down below the root lines. Too, they keep 

 soil particles loose and friable. Spade them 

 into the soil or apply as a top dressing at 

 least half an inch deep. In a heavy clay 

 soil use one inch or more. A newly plant- 

 ed lawn needs a rich well balanced soil, 

 because grass roots are heavy feeders. By 

 feeding the soil the vital elements con- 

 tained in plant food, such as nitrogen, 

 phosphorous, potash, etc., you are headed 

 toward a successful planting. We can rec- 

 ommend the best plant food for your local 

 soil condition. 



Mix the lawn food with a top dressing or 

 rake and work it well into the soil. Be- 

 cause fresh manure usually contains weed 

 seeds its use is not advisable for a new 

 lawn. 



SEEDING. The generally accepted rule for 

 the amount of seed required is five pounds 

 per thousand square feet. Skimping on 

 seed in quality or quantity is costly in 

 time and labor. A well sown lawn checks 

 the immediate introduction and develop- 

 ment of weeds. Too much seed retards 

 growth. Choose a calm windless day for 

 sowing. A more uniform distribution of 

 seed is possible with a spreader. Whether 

 sown by hand or spreader, however, sow 

 in two directions, one at right angles to 

 the other. This insures against leaving 

 bare grassless areas. 



Rake the seed into the soil lightly or brush 

 it in by dragging some light flexible ob- 

 ject over it such as a sack. The seed 

 should be covered by an eighth of an inch 

 of fine soil or new top dressing. 



ROLLING. May be properly employed to 

 press the soil firmly around the new seed. 

 Use a light water ballast roller, empty to 

 one third full. Remember the soil becomes 

 compacted if rolled too heavily too often 

 or when wet and sticky. For leveling your 

 lawn whether new or old use top dress- 

 ing, never a roller. 



WATER with a fine spray so the seed bed 

 will not be disturbed. If the normal mois- 

 ture is enough to keep the lawn just 

 slightly damp try not to water it again 

 until the seed has germinated, but do not 

 let it get dry at any time. 



SPRING LAWN CARE 



Fine lawns start with very early spring 

 care. Here are some suggestions. 



1. REMOVE all the winter accumulations 

 of leaves and debris by raking. 



2. APPLY PLANT FOOD as directed by the 

 manufacturer. If grass has started apply 

 when grass is dry, then soak the lawn to 

 wash the plant food off the blades and 

 into the soil. 



3. RE-SEED thin and bare spots using about 

 a pound to each 200 square feet. Pulver- 

 ize the soil in bare spots, then cover the 

 seed lightly. 



4. ROLL the lawn with a lightweight roller 

 when soil is dry enough to prevent com- 

 pacting. 



Fall planting offers many advantages in 

 lawn starting. If you plant in the spring, 

 seed early — long before you begin work 

 on your flower garden, for seedlings need 

 a chance to grow sturdy before weeds 

 germinate. Planting delayed until mid- 

 summer can be successful if diligently 

 followed by ample watering and weeding. 



SUMMER LAWN CARE 



1. MOW frequently enough to keep grass 

 from exceeding a 21/2 inch height. Set the 

 mower to cut about IV4 inches high. Very 

 close cutting scalps the rough spots and 

 unless done extra-frequently injures the 

 grass by sudden exposure to the sun 

 after it has been shaded by dense growth. 

 Short mower clippings left on the lawn 

 are beneficial. They are harmful however 

 if the quantity is so great the grass is 

 smothered and new growth retarded. 



2. WEED CONTROL with the many excel- 

 lent and selective types now available as- 

 sures weed elimination with the least ef- 

 fort and time. Get those weeds early be- 

 fore they seed or spread and your sum- 

 mer lawn care is considerably easier. Refer 

 to our weed killer selection in the back 

 of our Garden Annual. 



3. WATERING is a point that depends 

 much on your good judgment. If the turf 

 is dry it is far wiser to soak limited areas 

 to a six to eight inch depth on successive 

 evenings than to sprinkle the whole lawn 

 with a limited supply of moisture that will 

 attract the dry grass roots up to the sur- 

 face. Water sloping areas more liberally 

 at the top to compensate for drainage 

 losses. 



FALL LAWN CARE 



FEEDING the lawn with a balanced plant 

 food and seeding the bare and thin spots 

 will amply reward your effort the follow- 

 ing spring with a sparkling, healthy new 

 growth. 



Fall Is A Good Time To Make a New 

 Lawn. During the moderate fall weather, 

 grass seed germinates quickly and makes 

 vigorous growth. Also, few weeds ger- 

 minate in the fall, thus permitting the 

 lawn to flourish without interference. 



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