VEGETABLE SEED CULTURE 



There's no end to the science of vegetable gardening — nor to the books 

 that have been written about this fascinating subject. But if you haven't 

 the time to read all the books, then try the brief paragraphs that follow. 

 Here are the fundamental facts — the things every vegetable gardener 

 should know— AND DO! 



ASPARAGUS 



Soak seed 24 hrs. before planting. 

 Sow in loose, rich, moist soil after 

 danger from frost is past. Thin to 

 stand 6" apart. In early spring, set 

 in permanent position, 24" apart, 

 in rows 36" apart. Set in hole so 

 that crown is 8" below surface, but 

 only cover tips with 3" of soil. As 

 plants grow, fill in until level. 

 Don't cut first year after setting. 



SNAP BEANS 



Don't plant until danger from frost 

 is over. 



Sow beans in bottom of 3" to 4" 

 furrow, 18" between rows, but do 

 not fill in with more than 1" of 

 soil over seeds. Thin to stand 4" 

 to 6" apart in row. Bean seedlings 

 are likely to break their necks 

 pushing through heavy soil. In 

 such soils, cover seeds with mix- 

 ture of half sand and half soil, or 

 sand and peat or any other loose, 

 light material that will allow seed- 

 lings to break through easily. 

 Make successive sowings every 2-3 

 weeks until 60 days before frost. 

 Don't cultivate beans when wet: 

 this may spread disease. 



BUSH LIMA BEANS 



Plant two weeks later than bush 

 snap beans, when soil is warm. 

 Space rows 24" apart; otherwise 

 follow instructions for snap beans. 



POLE BEANS and POLE LI M AS 



Both these should be planted two 

 weeks after bush beans. Rough 

 poles set 3 feet apart should be 

 used. Anchor well, as heavy bean- 

 vines blow over easily. Sometimes 

 three poles set to form a tepee are 

 used and several seeds planted 

 around each tepee. 

 SPECIAL NOTE OX ALL BEANS. 

 — Two scientific facts about beans 

 will help produce better crops. 

 First, being legumes, they should 

 be inoculated with special legume 

 culture listed in supply section. 

 This enables plants to manufacture 

 own nitrogen from the air. Second, 

 bud drop of the tiny flowers (even 

 before they can be easily seen) 

 cuts the early set of pods. By 

 spraying with FRUITONE these 

 buds are held on and the early 

 crop increased as much as 100 %. 



BEETS 



Each "seed" is a fruit with several 

 true seeds. No matter how thinly 

 beets are sown, they will need 

 thinning. Plant as soon as ground 

 can be worked in spring, thin 

 gradually fuse thinnings as greens) 

 until roots stand 4" apart. Make 

 three sowings, one early, one three 

 weeks later and one 60 days before 

 frost is expected. 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS 



Grow like late cabbage, but don't 

 use until after heads have been 

 frosted. 



BROCCOLI 



Start plants indoors 5 weeks before 

 last frost. Set out 12" x 24". 

 Broccoli heads must be harvested 

 before they bloom: they are in- 

 edible after yellow flowers appear. 

 Direct-seed for late crop 60 days 

 before frost is expected. 



Special Directions for Control- 

 ling Insects in Cauliflower, 

 Broccoli and Brussels Sprouts 



Use Rotenone dust or spray. It 

 must hit insects directly, so drive 

 them out of inner head by dusting 

 or spraying with light dose of 

 Rotenone. Allow plant to stand for 

 10 minutes, then go back over the 

 same row with a heavy dose of 

 Rotenone. By this time the worms 

 will be out on the surface and are 

 sure to be killed. Repeat every 

 10 days. 



Ask us how to control root 

 maggots that harm cabbage, 

 Brussels sprouts, onions, rad- 

 ishes, and turnips — also how to 

 guard against the carrot rust 



fly- 



EARLY CABBAGE 



Start plants inside (see Page 14). 

 Set out 12" x 24" as soon as frost 

 danger is past. Dusting with D.D.T. 

 is safe if outer leaves are dis- 

 carded, since plant grows from the 

 inside out. 



LATE CABBAGE 



Direct-seed four months before 

 frost is expected, thinning to 24" 

 x 36". Or start plant indoors (see 

 Page 14) 30 days before needed, 

 transplanting outdoors 90 days be- 

 fore frost. Don't water freely 

 when heads are nearly filled, as 

 this promotes splitting; irrigate 

 only enough to keep plants grow- 

 ing well. 



CELERY 



Start in hotbed 60 days before 

 needed. In setting outdoors, don't 

 get soil in or over crown. Set 7" 

 to 12" apart. Soil must be rich, 

 moist and loose. As soon as plants 

 have grown to 14" to 15" tall, set 

 12" boards on both sides of row 

 and hold in place with earth. Or 

 4" drain tile can be used to blanch 

 individual stalks. 



Celery must have warm, settled 

 weather: if chilled, plants are 

 likely to go to seed. 



CHINESE CABBAGE 



Must never be grown as a spring 

 crop since it will only go to seed. 

 Plant after June 15th, as days are 

 getting shorter: then it will head. 

 An excellent succession crop to 

 follow early peas. 



COLLARDS 



Follow directions for early cab- 

 bage. 



(Continued on Page 17) 



mm 



BEANS, Improved Golden Wax 



TOMATO, Stokesdale 



CUCUMBER. Cubit 



SQUASH, Early Prolific Straightneck 



CAULIFLOWER, Early Snowball 15 



