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THE ORCHID REVIEW. [November, iyo 4 - 



watchful, for it has not such a strong constitution as it would lead one to 

 suppose. See that the roots are always kept in good condition, by re- 

 potting when required. Once in about two years it should be completely 

 taken out of the old compost, and repotted in fresh, clean material. 

 Three years should certainly be the outside limit. I may again remind 

 growers that C. labiata, like C. Dowiana, has a rather unpleasant habit of 

 losing its new pseudobulb directly after flowering by damping and rotting. 

 This decay, which is greatly accelerated by damp, dull weather, sets in from 

 where the flowers are cut, and if not stopped rapidly it descends, and the 

 result may be fully imagined. In order to avoid this, remove the old 

 flower spike and sheath entirely, after which the wound soon heals, and 

 damping then rarely occurs. 



Pleione lagenaria, and P. maculata, again, are very pretty while they 

 last. These little Orchids are of easy culture, though sometimes they may 

 be seen in very indifferent health. As deciduous Orchids they are often 

 thought to require a rest after flowering, but this is a mistake. Pleiones 

 are never really inactive. Directly the flowers have faded they commence 

 to grow and emit new roots, and this is the time to repot them. I find it is 

 not necessary to do this every year. Once in two years will suffice. 

 Sphagnum moss and peat broken finely and mixed together is a most 

 suitable compost for them. A little fibrous loam may also be added with 

 beneficial effect. After re-potting keep the compost just moist, and suspend 

 them in an intermediate temperature. Pleiones delight in an abundance 

 of light. 



Odontoglossum grande is now just passing its best period. Such a 

 good old species is really worth growing well, and is hard to beat as 

 an autumn bloomer. To accomplish excellent culture, my experience is 

 that it should be treated simply as an Intermediate house Orchid, and 

 grown in leaf soil compost. It should be kept on the dry side during winter. 



Phalaenopses will now be showing their flower spikes. They give very 

 little trouble when the structure is a suitable one. They should always 

 occupy the warmest part of the house, and be suspended just so far from 

 the glass that the cold from the same does not strike down upon them. 

 Avoid also cold draughts, and water during winter very carefully. Under 

 such treatment they should grow well, and keep free from that tiresome 

 spot. They are soon laid low when attacked by spot, which I think is 

 generally caused by a check brought about by too low a temperature, 

 especially if they are at the same time wet. 



Calanthes should now have much less water, enough only to support 

 the flower spikes, which are now reaching an advanced stage. 



