﻿December, 1904.] THE ORCHID REVIEW. 3 59 



are particularly welcome for brightening up the Orchid House ; for this 

 reason alone they are, and should be, grown in quantity. 



Brassias, I think, are a little neglected in cultivation, and rarely does one 

 see them represented very strongly. True, the flowers of some species are 

 of a somewhat sombre hue, but there are others, which are most striking, 

 and always sure to attract attention, even if surrounded with flowers of 

 more brilliant colours. B. brachiata is one of these, as are also B. 

 maculata, B. verrucosa, B. Lawrenceana, and B. caudata. The culture of 

 Brassias is very simple. Their requirements are those of the Oncidiums, 

 and the po ition given should be one at the warmest end of the Intermediate 

 or Cattleya House. 



Cattleya Percivaliana, which is the first of the labiata section to flower 

 in the new year, is now commencing to push its (lower spikes, and should be 

 given a light position in the Warm house until the flowers have expanded, 

 for it often happens if this precaution is not taken that the flower buds 

 turn yellow and die long before they can emerge from the sheath. This 

 premature decay shows that the ordinary Cattleya house is hardly warm 

 enough for this species at this season. 



Cymbidium giganteum is now in bloom. It is splendid to grow for 

 winter blooming, and if it is kept fairly dry the flowers last a very long 

 time in perfection. C. Mastersii and C. elegans are also flowering, while C. 

 eburneum and C. Lowianum are just pushing forth their flower spikes. 

 Cymbidiums do not take kindly to root disturbance, and are usually some 

 little time before they finally recover from the effects of repotting. This 

 operation must, of course, be done occasionally, but they should not pass 

 through that operation before it becomes really necessary. When done, it 

 is best performed in the spring months, using a compost of fibrous loam and 

 peat in equal proportions, with sharp silver sand. They should be watered 

 with great moderation during the winter months, and placed at the coolest 

 end of the Intermediate or Cattleya house. 



Dendrobiums are now resting, and it is well that they should be inactive 

 at this time of the year, and not be unduly excited until the days begin to 

 lengthen and the sun gain power. No good purpose can be served by 

 trying to force them to flower in mid-winter. For the cool resting kinds, 

 guard against the possibility of the temperature becoming too cool, for if 

 this happens the plants, although showing no outward signs of injury at the 

 time, are greatly weakened, and often collapse during the following growing 

 season. From 50° to 56 is a suitable temperature to aim at. The 

 thermometer will, of course, fall below and rise above for short periods, 

 which will do no harm. Those plants which were the first to mature their 

 pseudobulbs will naturally be the first to produce flower buds, and when 

 this is seen, they should be given slight encouragemeet, so that they 



