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piece seven inches and another fourteen inches, 

 weld on the end of the fourteen inch bar a small 

 knob, which will answer as a hand hold. Or you 

 can take off three inches from a broom handle, 

 bore a half-inch hole through the center from end 

 to end, and drive it on the end of the fourteen- 

 inch bar, which will also answer as a hand hold. 

 Now take the six-inch bar and weld it onto the 

 seven-inch bar, about one inch from the top, then 

 weld the other end of the six-inch bar onto the 

 fourteen-inch bar, also one inch from the top, and 

 weld the other six-inch bar onto the bottom of 

 the seven-inch bar, allowing one inch to extend 

 out, then weld the six-inch bar to the fourteen- 

 inch bar, five inches below the top bar. After 

 your blacksmith has completed your speculum, 

 wrap around the cross-bars about a half a dozen 

 layers of woolen cloth, then sew the cloth so it 

 cannot unwrap from the cross-bar. Or you can 

 go to a hardware store and buy a rubber hose ten 

 inches long and half an inch thick, cut the hose in 

 two, then cut it on one side from end to end, place 

 it on the upper cross-bar, have the open space on 

 the bottom so there will be no seam to wound the 

 mouth, and place the other hose on the lower 

 cross-bar, having the seam of the hose turned up. 

 In order to keep the hose from turning around, 

 heat the cross-bar before you place the hose on 

 the speculum and in a few seconds, after you 

 have the rubber on the bars, put the speculum in 

 cold water. By heating the speculum before 

 placing the rubber on it, you form a gum from 

 the rubber hose, which will adhere to the cross- 

 bars and stay in place. The water will cool the 

 rubber and prevent it from burning through the 

 hose. 



