No. 433 ] HATS FROM NOOTKA SOUND REGION. 67 



i double, as shown in the cross-section (Fig. 2). 

 Each headpiece consists really of two hats, an inner and an 

 outer one, joined at the rim, the last few pairs of twisted woof 

 elements of the outer hat enclosing also the ends of the warp 

 of the inner. The inner hat, or lining, is coarsely but neatly 

 woven of cedar bark, and only in one specimen (a, Plate I) is 

 there a knob at the top of the lining corresponding to that of 

 the outer hat. Upon the under side at about three inches from 

 the rim each warp element is doubled upon itself, forming a 

 loop about three-fourths of an inch long. Through these loops 

 is run a strong double cord of Indian hemp. The loops are 

 bound together by twined weaving, and form an inner rim 

 edged with the cord of hemp, which fits the head snugly. To 

 this is fastened the thong which passes 

 beneath the chin of the wearer. 



The exterior or outer hat is woven 

 principally of grass spires and cedar 

 bark. In most of the specimens a nar- 

 row strip below the knob is made of 

 fine cedar roots. The warp appears to 

 be formed of split roots, and is fine and 



strong. The grass of the woof was F, J^^^ t ^ n J h h ° a , ;' nK 

 originally an ivory white, the selected 



cedar bark used in conjunction with it being usually stained a 

 dark brown or black. 



Each strand of the twisted pair of woof elements forming 

 the design is composed of a grass spire and a strip of cedar 

 bark of the same width laid side by side, the strand thus 

 formed being white upon one side and black upon the other. 

 These double strands are used not only where figures appear, 

 but throughout the groundwork of the design as well. The 

 figures are principally black upon a white ground. In forming 

 them the strands are simply reversed, the black sides which 

 were concealed beneath the grass spires in the white back- 

 ground being carried outward, as shown in Fig. I. In some of 

 the specimens the knob at the top is woven separately and 

 afterwards joined to the hat. In the hat illustrated at/, Plate I, 

 a small wooden hoop is placed within the knob to preserve its 



