these being collected into heaps and carefully burnt. Care should 

 be taken that Mengkudu (Mo>'inda tinctoria, Roxb.) Leban (various 

 species of Vitex) amongst other small-sized trees be not cut or 

 damaged by the fire as they help to re-afforest or clothe the area, 

 main object. 



It is recommended by Mr. RiCKETTS that "yard-cube" pits be 

 dug, i.e., a square yard at top and bottom and on each side. The 

 advantage claimed being " that the cooly can get into it and dig it 

 out large and square at the bottom, where it is most important for 

 root development." Ordinarily holes 2 feet square at top and one 

 foot square at bottom and if necessary a hole may be made in the 

 centre of the bottom with a crowbar (Malay: Alabangka) will be 

 found to suffice. The holes can be made with a Changkol and the 

 slope towards the bottom trimmed with the " penggali. " The best 

 time for planting out is from September to January, once the rains 

 are assured. 



Distance of planting, (i). If Casuarina alone is planted, 12 

 feet by 12 feet should be adopted. (2). If sown in alternate lines, 

 say with Tembusu, 9 feet by 9 feet. (3). Another plan is to plan; 

 6 feet by 6 feet with the intention of subsequently removing every 

 alternate sapling, when it has attained 4 or 5 years' growth. The 

 last is best for windy localities and also for the suppression of 

 lalang- grass. A considerable return may be expected from this 

 thinning. If Mr. RlDLF.v's contention is right that it is resistant to 

 white ants, these saplings may be sold for rafters for building bang- 

 sals and for pepper props, for which they would have a ready sale. 

 Probably Carpenter bees (Xylocopa Sp.) will not bore into Casuarina 

 so readily as they do into the soft woods usually employed in 

 building bangsals, both because of its hardness and its containing 

 a small quantity of gum resin in its woody structure. (4). Again 

 planting at 12 feet by 12 feet maybe adopted with a "quincuncial " 

 plant (Casuarina or Tembusu) at the intersection of the diagonals. 



The pits should be dug well before it is meditated to carry out 

 the actual transplanting, and the pits as also the excavated soil 

 turned over, be left fully exposed to the action of the weather. About 

 a fortnight previous to transplanting the pits should be refilled to 

 the ground level with the enrth formerly removed from them. It is 

 essential that all the loose earth be returned to the pit so as to form 

 a small mound above the ground level. Earth dug out and weathered 

 occupies about 25 per cent more space than it did in its undisturbed 

 condition underground. This is best undertaken after a slight 

 shower and not when the soil is thoroughly wet, it is difficult to 

 manipulate a wet soil and such soil is apt to harden in drying and 

 interfere with its porosity. The pits may be even filled in dry 

 weather in anticipation of rain. 



Presuming a sufficiency of pits has been dug with a large balance 

 111 hand an easy matter to satisfy oneself of if tiie-pot nurseries are 

 gone in for in the first instance the operation of final transplanting 

 may be carried out after rain overnight. Supposing tile-pot trans- 

 plants have been raised they will be carried from the nursery to the 



