40 



THE FLOWER GROWER'S GUIDE. 



contend witli^ including several good-sized mounds, then a different method of procedure 

 will be necessary. A thorough examination of the surface, including the heaj)s, ought 

 to be made with a view to prevent burying the good soil. If there is any such in the 

 hollows throw it out, fill up with poorer soil from the heaps or ridges and cover this 

 with the better soil. Should the surface of the ridges consist of good soil and that 

 underneath be poor (gravelly, clayey, or chalky), take care to use the poor only for 

 filling up deep hollows, reserving all that is of a fertile character for the surface. 



Seeing that the walks are not extensive, it may be advisable to double dig the 

 whole of the ground before staking out, as the work might then be done more quickly 

 and thoroughly. Next stake out the walks, which really means the beds, borders, and 

 grass plots at the same time, and spread the top 9 inches from their sites over the 

 beds and borders; any part intended for grass will probably be quite good enough 

 already. It is the shrubs and herbaceous plants that will stand in the greatest need 

 of an extra depth of fertile soil, and they also look better when this is raised above 

 the general ground level. If thera happen to be a heap of decaying turves left behind, 

 save some of this for potting purposes, also for mixing with the soil in which carnations, 

 roses, and fruit trees are to be planted. 



In most cases it will be found that the ordinary soil is very poor, the bulk of it not 

 having been long exposed to pulverising influences, and, therefore, not capable of properly 

 supporting plant life. With a view to correcting this bad state of affairs an attempt 

 should be made to improve it by the addition of a few loads of the best loam that can 

 be bought, one cart-load, equal to about ten wheel-barrowfuls, greatly improving an 

 area 20 feet by 10 feet. Also add about one cart-load or a ton of town or stable 

 manure to every 120 square yards. If the ground is heavy, road sweepings, fine 

 ashes, sand, and sifted mortar rubbish, may be used even more freely, trenching and 

 mixing all well together. If rhododendrons, kalmias, Belgian azaleas, and other I^orth 

 American or bog plants are to be grown these should be planted in peat principally, 

 though they would eventually succeed in loamy soil if there is little or no lime in it. 



Forecourt gardens ought to have quite as much pains taken in their preparation, as 

 nothing will long thrive in the poor, thin, and shallow-dug soil that contractors, and 

 not a few jobbing gardeners, would leave or plant in if left to their own devices. After 

 all it is only a very small sum that need be expended in this direction, if the work 

 is judiciously managed. Especially ought there to be a good depth of fresh, moderately 

 rich soil next the walls and fences, as it is there where a variety of climbers or fruit 



