THE FLOWER GROWER'S GUIDE. 



by those responsible for the furnishing of a garden. More than ordinary pains 

 should be taken with the preparation of the soil. Mere digging is not enough. It 

 ought to be trenched, but not to the extent of bringing a quantity of clayey subsoil to 

 the surface. Fuller advice on this matter will be found in the preceding pages. 

 If the soil can be brought into a finely divided, free- working, state by the end of 

 August, and is also moist, the planting of choice shrubs and conifers may be 

 proceeded with whenever the weather is propitious, ceasing when frosty weather 

 sets in or cutting winds prevail, recommencing in March and April. Deciduous 

 trees may be moved from the middle of October till late in March. Those planted 

 early will form some fresh roots before the winter arrives, while shrubs move 

 readily just when both top and root growth is commencing in the spring. Evergreens, 

 including aucubas, laurels, rhododendrons, and conifers, may be moved at almost any 

 time of the year — provided extra pains are taken with them both as regards the 

 transplanting, the condition of the soil, and judicious watering as may be needed. 



Avoid planting when the ground is cither very dry or in a saturated state. 

 Much depends upon the condition of the roots of trees or shrubs when moved. If they 

 have been transplanted not long previously no great difiiculty will be experienced 

 in securing a sufficient mass of adhering soil to keep them alive till fresh roots 

 form and obtain food from the new position. The best results attend the planting 

 of young trees and shrabs, or those not heavier, when lifted, than one man can carry. 

 For immediate efi^ect, good-sized specimens are desirable, and these can always be had 

 by those prepared to pay for them. Many large trees experience such a severe check 

 in removal that some of them die, while others are extremely slow in recovering. As 

 a consequence they remain almost stationary, whereas the smaller scarcely feel the 

 check and rapidly overtake those that do. The larger specimens also require much 

 attention after they are planted. Should a dry summer follow, thorough soakings of 

 water have to be given to the roots, also the tops must be syringed frequently or 

 many of the trees will die and the rest become stunted in growth. Late-j^lanted small 

 trees and shrubs may also need copious supplies of water during a dry, hot summer, 

 and in every case they should be given before the old balls of soil become dry, or the 

 labour may be wasted. Mere driblets are worse than useless. If the soil fail to 

 rapidly absorb water when applied, remove a little of the topmost, and carefully 

 loosen well down to the roots ; then, if a basin is formed with soil, the water given 

 will be conducted exactly where it is needed, instead of running uselessly away. A 



